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Buccaneer.
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November 22, 2020 at 7:30 pm #221386
I got the new prop shaft, bushings, etc., back in the gear case and it’s
starting to look like it could to be a runner again.As I was looking at photos I took today to document my progress,
I was wondering if there’s suppose to be a gasket or sealing washer
between the gear case and the water pump assembly? The pump
bore fits in the case somewhat snug, but not water tight, so I put
some Indian Head gasket sealer around it when I put it together.When I took the water pump apart I was expecting to find check “balls”,
but found little check “valves”. Are they unique to Caille?The gas tank will be a major pain, if I can salvage it. Some of the seams
are loose. Not sure how solid it is yet. Once I get the heavy primer off of
it, I’ll know more. Anyone have any luck unsoldering the tanks seams to
gain access to clean the interior, the seams, etc., and get it back together
and soldered, or would that be a big mistake on my part?The Callie never had a tiller handle. I “believe” it’s just a skinny pipe that
screws into the crankcase somewhere. Anyone know if the handles were
brass pipe, or iron, and if they had a “grip” on the end, and if so, would
it be rubber or wood?
I’ll have to re-visit Jack’s site and make a wild guess unless someone
knows fer sure.
Thanks!Prepare to be boarded!
November 22, 2020 at 11:10 pm #221397Check valves not unique to Caille. Most motors of that era with the plunger-type water pump use them as do all Johnson model A and A-25’s. Clean the seats out with a brass brush and some wet Comet cleanser. The check valves can be cleaned up with a scotch-Brite pad if they need it.
No sealer or gasket around, in, or under the water pump. They are far from watertight. Water gets in and gets out. Its why Lubriplate grease is the shittiest grease you can use for a rowboat motor lower unit. Use something that is going to stick to the innards of the gearcase.
Taking gas tanks apart is just something that needs to be done on rowboat motors, especially if they show signs of heavy rust, either inside or outside. They will come apart using a good heat gun if you want to avoid using a torch on it.
The steer handle is more than likely nothing more than a length of round stock with a 1/2″-20 NF thread on the end that threads into the tiller yoke. You can use whatever metal stock (Aluminuim, brass, steel) that you have. Most Cailles that had a grip used one of rubber. Jack’s website will have a lot of photos on it to use for comparison. I’m not going to look for it because you should do that research anyway. Just be aware that looking at the variable pitch prop motors won’t help you much because the handles and grips are all together different.
Best,
PM T2He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
November 22, 2020 at 11:27 pm #221398The check valves in the water pump were in nice shape, but I lapped them lightly anyway.
I used to use Lubriplate, but once I tried cornhead grease I never looked back….. hopefully
that’s good for the old Caille’s gearcase.My only heat gun is the wife’s old hair dryer, so I guess I’ll use the torch!
Will look at Jack’s site many times, and hard to say what’s original or not
regarding tiller handles, but like you say…… guess it doesn’t matter a whole lot.Any ideas on a “period correct” looking water pump to cylinder hose? 3/8″ heater
hose with white printing is a downer “looks wise”.P.s.- Just spent a little while on Jack’s site, and not much on original Caille Neptunes
that even have a tiller handle, but I did find an ad, and the tiller grip looks
like it could have been wood.Prepare to be boarded!
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