Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Greenpea needs help
- This topic has 32 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 7 months ago by
steveh.
-
AuthorPosts
-
June 7, 2016 at 3:52 pm #37838
Right next to that tell tale pipe, is your exhaust tube. Sure it’s going to be hot 😀
June 24, 2016 at 5:23 pm #38900Ok. Learned some stuff. Just getting back around to this motor.
#1 When you decide to change the impeller on a TN 26 it is best to remove the LU lube through the drain plug before beginning. You certainly don’t have to do it that way though, as it is going to come out the top if you decide to just drop the LU first.
#2 Even though I have the LU off I still don’t know how to get the impeller out of there. I have it detached from the plate and can see that it has lost a vane or two but I don’t know how to get it off the shaft without further pulling the cable down, which seems like it would be a bad thing.
What is the proper procedure from this point?
June 24, 2016 at 7:14 pm #38904I pulled the cable out enough to remove the shaft from the leg. I still can’t figure out how to separate the parts of the pump. It doesn’t look like the cover pulls over the top of the shaft like every other water pump I have ever worked on as it seems to be hitting something. Different diameters of the shaft maybe? But, I cannot figure out how the plate should move down either. Ran slap out of know how.
June 24, 2016 at 11:29 pm #38915PLEASE stop there & read!! Those coils require the spark plug wires to be soldered to the coil!! You must be very good at soldering to add new wire. SECONDLY, the primary & secondary windings both have a separt grounding leads, NOT just one ground. Be very sure you have both grounds from one coil connected to ground! The third wire goes to the spark plug (big wire) & the fourth goes to the points terminal.
FRANK!!! Does this one have the grounding switch to the points? Can’t remember! It is the same as any coil except this guy has the windings ground wires not connected inside the coil, they both come out & are bonded together, then grounded to the frame of the engine. You may need a jumper wire not installed by the factory. A wire from the engine block to the magneto plate to make a good electrical bonding from one to the other. What you are seeing is a current reverse. Mine turned my opposite set of points gold it got so hot.
Hope this helps & PLEASE do not remove the spark plug wire from the coil! Many have ruined the coil by getting it too hot with hot solder. If you send it to me I will place a new wire on the coil. Also check the other terminals where the wire have crimped terminals. After I worked mine over I had great spark. Something has loose or corroded terminals on them. Check every wire is all & check terminals too!
JeffJune 24, 2016 at 11:45 pm #38916If you want to try soldering on a new plug wire, tin the new wire very heavely. To remove the old wire place the soldering tip on the TOP! of the soldered connection & pull on the wire. When it gets hot enough the solder will let go & get off the terminal right NOW!!. To place the new wire have the end tinned very heavy with solder. Lay the cold wire end on the terminal until you feel the solder start to melt. Make sure the solder on the wire gets shiney like chrome & move the heat away now if not sooner. Be sure the wire does not move ANY until it cools off. Moving the wire will result in a cold joint & high resistance. Like I said I will do it if you want.Good luck & maybe practice on a bad part
JeffJune 24, 2016 at 11:50 pm #38917Jeff, any chance provide some links that show how to solder a coil? I have a TN-28 that won’t run right, and I didn’t solder the coils. I didn’t even know it was possible. It still doesn’t make sense to me as IIRC, there was a threaded pin in the centre of the bore that penetrated the plug wire (replacement coil) are you talking oem or something?
June 24, 2016 at 11:56 pm #38919Or even a photo?
June 25, 2016 at 12:15 am #38921Two items
1) simple condenser testing device schematic that can be made from inexpensive parts
someone here probably has plans…not as easy since Radio Shack went out.
2) Mud dabber hornets do not sting. They prey on spiders. The mud dab contains a future hornet and a number of inactive spiders for its nutrition while developing.
If you have spiders in basement set humidity level on dehumidifier at 40% or lower.
LouisJune 25, 2016 at 1:09 pm #38938My problem at this point is that I cannot get the cover over the impeller to move up the shaft or the plate to go down to access the impeller and change it out. It is likely that I am just not holding my mouth right but I want to make sure I’m not gonna break something by pushing a bit harder.
June 25, 2016 at 1:43 pm #38940It has been a while…but if I remember right I pulled the driveshaft down a bit so I could access the impeller drive pin. I pushed that out and then took the driveshaft out. Then I was able to rotate the impeller cover out of the way and pull the impeller out. It may be a bit stuck on the neutral cable tube.
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.