Home › Forum › Ask A Member › ID engine by number on freeze plug?? Johnson 1400229
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outboardnut.
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November 4, 2020 at 8:20 pm #220106November 4, 2020 at 10:54 pm #220125
All I could find in The Old Outboard Book was that it was manufactured in 1956.
Model RD-18
Model RDE-18
Model RJE-18?
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by
cajuncook1.
November 4, 2020 at 11:05 pm #220144November 5, 2020 at 3:37 am #220148All RD-17 xxxx models were 1955. But the serial # you posted is for a 1956. What gives?? I’d say that IF it really is a 1955 RD-17 the powerhead has been replaced with a 1956 30hp. Many RD-17S models had the powerhead replaced due to those lower seal problems.
Wanna know what kind of seal you have? Look and see. Sorry ’bout that.
November 5, 2020 at 8:28 am #220151Wow -very interesting
I.m in the process of dissecting
By just looking at the bottom crank seal-I think it has a lip seal because I see a spring (which makes no sense-Since it is a 1956 it should have carbon seal)
The block looks like it was painted by the factory (green)
It does have a fuel saver rod (like a 1956)
It has a hole on the stern bracket for an overboard cable (like a 1956)
It has the letter S stamped on stern bracket
This 1400229 is stuck
I,m thinking I will be replacing the 1400229 block with a RD-17S
Stay tuned there are more thingsNovember 5, 2020 at 8:29 am #220156November 5, 2020 at 9:10 am #220162November 5, 2020 at 10:40 am #2201761. The picture you posted is indeed one of the troublesome lip seals, and yes it has failed.
2. About those model numbers: RD-17S would be a lip seal.
3. EARLY 1955 (RD-17) would have a carbon seal. That was changed to a lip seal in mid-year 1955 (RD-17S).
4. EARLY 1956 models were 30 hp and still had the lip seal. But because they had to replace so many powerheads due to fatal seal failure, another change was made in mid-year 1956, reverting back to the old reliable carbon seal.
5. I am not sure of the model numbers denoting the change in 1956. I may have lost them when my computer crashed.
6. Hope this helps clear things up.
November 5, 2020 at 5:45 pm #2201881400229 also came with electric start.I believe the starter is 12 volts
It is 11 tooth AutoLite MDH 4001 M2
I also believe the choke solenoid is 6 volts because there no written denoting that it is 12 volts.
The plan is- :
Take off the stuck 1400229 (1956) and put on a RD-17S (1955) block
To use the exhaust housing from 1400229 (1956)
To use the carb from 1400229 (1956)
To use the mag with the stop and link assembly from RD-17S (1955)
To use the starter from 1400229 (1956)
To use the ring gear flywheel from the 1400229 (1956)
My questions-
Will a carb from a RDE-18 (1956 30 hp) work on a RD-17S (1955 25 hp)??????
Should I reuse the stainless steel baffle plate that goes between the top of the exhaust housing and the bottom of the block? 1955 RD never used a baffle stainless steel plateNovember 5, 2020 at 6:07 pm #220193Your starter is six volt as it has the inspection band over the brush area. Twelve volt starters weren’t used until ’57.
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