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i watched the video.i understand how to adjust it and i think i’ll try it.the only thing i dont understand is where the armature plate has to be? full throttle?
OK, I think you are referring to the timing fixture tool that you would need in order to fine tune the ignition system timing….This is something I’m sure you don’t have…. Setting the points to .020″ on the high point of the cam is “good enough” to get the engine operating reasonably well….
OK, I see what he did in the video…He used the flywheel to located the points instead of the timing fixture. But, your 3hp does not have any extra holes in the mag plate to pass that wire through for the ohm meter. The one thing the video does not show is the final running test using the timing light to confirm that what you set statically actually exists when the engine is running.
This is a very fine adjustment that is easily affected afterwards. Just tightening the terminal screw on the points afterward can affect the point gap/timing slightly. Slop in the mag plate will surely affect the timing. Torqueing the flywheel can affect its position and running timing as well…New points should definitely be set to the “advanced side” of the small grid to compensate for initial rubbing block wear.
I am certainly not downplaying the benefits of this fine timing procedure, but I think trying to do this will cause you more confusion and upset than it is worth. Set your points to .020″ on the high side of the cam, unless they are brand new points. Set the points to .022″ on the highest lobe of the cam if they are new to compensate for initial point rubbing block wear. I’m trying to remember if your flywheel has an access hole so the point gap can be checked with the flywheel installed, I’m thinking it does not. Once the points are set, rotate the crankshaft clockwise a few revolutions and recheck your work, just in case you were not on the highest point of the cam lobe. Be sure to spray a little electrical cleaner spray (that evaporates) between the point contacts when they are open to remove any oily/greasy residue left over.
Again, be sure you don’t cross the coil primary leads to the wrong set of points, or the timing will be off and it won’t run. Be careful to properly locate the coil primary/condenser/coil ground leads to ensure they don’t rub on the inside of the flywheel or rotating crankshaft to avoid more problems once you get the engine running.
since they are not needed for the adjustment you can remove the condensers & you will have an extra 2 holes to fish some small 22-24 gauge wire out from under the plate ..for your ohmmeter to connect to
one wire per point and measure to frame ground on the engine
you can use a small light bulb or piezo buzzer in series with a small battery but the meter is better to measure to resistance across the point contacts …you should read just about 0 ohms closed ….anything much higher indicates dirty points which must be cleaned with acetone or carb cleaner soaked on a small piece of paper or business car
🙁
just woke up… you don’t really need any holes….if….with the flywheel off you can just access the points and use the “high cam position” to make your adjustmentsJoining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
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