Johnson A-45 Mag Plate & Start Up

[David Bartlett]

I had a similar experience with my A-25 recently. My problem was a little piece of dirt in the little tube in the carb. Starts and runs great now.

David Bartlett
Pine Tree Boating Club Chapter

"I don't fully understand everything I know!"

1 user thanked author for this post.

T....in Wisconsin

[T….in Wisconsin]

Thanks Dave,

I’ll pull the carb and check the passages if changing my starting procedure fails to resolve my problem.

 

[T….in Wisconsin]

Good news!

With a few adjustmets the motor now sounds strong & runs continous until the fuel in the float bowl runs outs. The weather has taken a turn to cold & snow today so I’ll have to wait a few days to put it back in the test tank.

What changed:

1. I changed the fuel mix from 16-1 to 24-1. Prior to the fuel change the motor would run initally after the first few rope pulls when the cylinders & plugs were dry, run for a few seconds and then flood out and not start again. I’ll swith back and try bit richer mixture but it dosen’t seem to like 16/1. (my bottle of 16/1 does look really rich though)  I’ll mix another bottle to verify correctness and try again. 24/1 is probably to lean?
2. Adjusted the needle valve setting to 3/4 turn out from closed position.
3. Set plug gap at .028″ (D9’s) I’ll try the vintage plugs again later.
4. Put some fish paper bottom under the coil/tabs for good measure.

Pleased with the current progress & results.

 

 

[The Boat House]

I run 3 oz. per gallon ( about 42 to 1) in most all my motors from the 1920’s to the 60’s. Tubs

[T….in Wisconsin]

Motor now runs continuous using a 16/1 mix supplied from the tank.                                 I don’t fully understand why it runs fine now but not before!

Quite possibly a combination of variables that are now aligned correctly.

T…

 

 

 

[T….in Wisconsin]

Findings from tank test.

1. Best position for the advance/ retard lever was 10deg right of center. This was a key find. I may adjust points to bring lever back to center.
2. Needle valve adusted to 1 to 1 1/4 turns out to start and adjust thereafter. Fuel from tank to carb bowl was not keeping up resulting in stalling after about 15 seconds. Seems obvious now but not at the time. “Tubs” advised to check for this.
3. Ran fine on 16/1 mixture with just a hint of smoke.
4. After chocking the best carb lever position was between F & S.

[joecb]

Nice looking motor, congrats!

What is “fish paper” ???     got’a  to be a Wisconsin thing!

Joe B

[T….in Wisconsin]

Thanks.

“Fish Paper” is dielectric insulating paper to prevent arcing.

[T….in Wisconsin]

Thanks Tubs,

Thought you might be interested in taking a look at the trial run.

Barell is full of water. I had been taking to bowl cover off and didn’t want to risk dropping it in the barell.

There were “lessons learned” during the adjusting and tweeking process.

T…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbuKoRNDJco

[The Boat House]

Sounds great. Crisp exhaust note can indicate good compression. You now have a nice example.  Erratic running may indicate you still have dirt in the fuel system. Fuel not keeping up to carb bowl could indicate some blockage in the fuel line. I like to use gum out carb cleaner on a pipe cleaner to clean out those small fuel lines. Tells the story when you pull it back out. Pipe cleaners aren’t as easy to come by as they use to be. Loosen the carb clamp and with the gas shut off, disconnect the fuel line, catching the fuel that runs out on a paper towel or clean rag. Then slip off the carb and catch the remaining fuel on the towel. If you see any little specks you have more cleaning to do. If not, most likely, it just needs to get on a boat and run some. As you have had it all apart and disturbed it all, it may take some running for everything to settle back in.  Tubs

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