Johnson AB-25

[muddog2]

I am ready to try to start this engine. Had to get gas tank repaired. Now all I need to do is connect the wires to the coil. I am told to bugle the ends of the wires and push them against the tabs on the coil and fill the void in the armature plate with silicone. Can I use a connector on the wires that will slide over the tabs on the coil to ensure good contact before I fill the void with silicone. Can I use a tube of black 100% silicone from the hardware store that comes in a pint caulking tube? Thanks for any help. I want to put this motor back in service. I have a 14′ semi V aluminum boat I put this motor on to take my grandson fishing. I also have to grease the foot. What is the recomended grease?
I would like to thank everyone for all the help getting this motor this far.
Robert Clark

[muddog2]

Here is a picturetrail link to picture of motor: http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1620/997767/24817069/414077485.jpg

[Buccaneer]

Search this site for John Deere Corn Head grease. Someone that’s actually worked on
this model will have tips for the coils, etc.

Prepare to be boarded!

[george-emmanuel]

I don’t like the use of silicone for any mag plates. There’s no reason to use it. On the mag plates that have the bakelite screw-in insulators there are several options to lock in wires. The concern in installing new wires is the prevention of damage to those coil tabs. The tabs on the A coils are pretty strong. So what I’ve done in the past is clean the threads well for the insulators so they screw in and out easily, and use a compressible grommet to lock in the wire. On the tab end I make a loop that goes over the tab and fits snugly but is not soldered.

There are plenty of pros and cons to my method, but if the wires are tight on the insulators, they hold up well.

George

[The Boat House]

• This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by The Boat House.

[stanley]

This is the method I use.I use 9mm wire and shove the wire against the tabs,using the o ring and plastic ferrule shown below.As the insulator is screwed into the mag plate the ferrule compresses and holds the wire firmly in place.I’ve done this several motors and never had a wire come loose.The plastic ferrule is a 3/8 od plastic pipe insert with a small section cut out so it will fully compress.

• This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by stanley.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 11 months ago by Mumbles.

[muddog2]

I would like to thank everyone for their help. I will post a vidieo if I get it running.
Robert Clark

[muddog2]

Got wires hooked up and I pulled the left plug and put it on the cyl head and I had good spark. Pulled the left and no spark. Took flywheel off and looked at end of wire and the tab on the coil had broken off. I didn’t try to attach the wires, just pushed them against the tabs and tightened the bakelight screws down over compression rings. Anyway I emailed Pat Koranda, I bought some parts from him for the moter, hoping to get a coil. With or withoug heel plates. This is all I have to do to see if I can get this engine running.
Robert

[stanley]

Depending on how much tab is left,I would try soldering the wire directly to the tab.That’s the way some later models did it and you have nothing to lose.

[muddog2]

Thanks, never thought of thatg. Will update .
Robert

[Author]

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