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timing tool is an excellent investment but not used much if you only have 1-2 motors
just make certain the front coil HV coil wire is on the top cyl. !
update: 🙂 I guess you have more than 1-2 !!!
download the free johnson service manual if you don’t have a copy … print & bind locally
https://www.socalaomci.com/library/johnson_service_manual_10th_edition.pdf
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
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All,
I am working on a 1952 Johnson 10 hp QD-13. It will cough & spit but never start.
I think i have a timing issue maybe???
If i had a Timing Tool and used it after setting the points with a feeler gauge, will the Magneto Cam (Top/high point) and Timing Tool line up together?
I have set the points using a feeler gauge at .020. I have good blue spark on both cylinders. Should i try using a Timing Tool to reset the points? Maybe I need to buy one from Richard W.
I Have good compression 70 psi on both cylinders. Cleaned and rebuilt Magneto it was very dirty. Cam, shaft, Key, and flywheel key way were very rusty. New plugs, wires, coils, condensers. Cleaned old points and reused.
Completely rebuilt carburetor. it seems to be working as should.
My two line pressure tank is also working as should. It holds 3 psi of pressure all the way to fitting for motor.
Thanks, Kent
I am heading to bed right now…4:30 am comes early. I will digest your comment tomorrow at work and muster up some answers.
Regards
Richard
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com1 user thanked author for this post.
All,
I am working on a 1952 Johnson 10 hp QD-13. It will cough & spit but never start.
I think i have a timing issue maybe???
If i had a Timing Tool and used it after setting the points with a feeler gauge, will the Magneto Cam (Top/high point) and Timing Tool line up together?
I have set the points using a feeler gauge at .020. I have good blue spark on both cylinders. Should i try using a Timing Tool to reset the points? Maybe I need to buy one from Richard W.
I Have good compression 70 psi on both cylinders. Cleaned and rebuilt Magneto it was very dirty. Cam, shaft, Key, and flywheel key way were very rusty. New plugs, wires, coils, condensers. Cleaned old points and reused.
Completely rebuilt carburetor. it seems to be working as should.
My two line pressure tank is also working as should. It holds 3 psi of pressure all the way to fitting for motor.
Thanks, Kent
Alright, lets get this started.
Using a feelers gage, is not an exact science. You will get spark, just harder to guarantee ” WHEN” you get spark, and that is the issue.
There are wizards out there that do it, but the timing tool removes all doubt, when used properly.
The timing tool promises to give you spark, as long as all the spark making components are good, at the moment you need spark in relation to where the piston(s) are vs TDC. On 2 cylinder models the tool also ensures that if used properly BOTH cylinders are firing as close to exactly 180 degrees apart as one can get ensuring best chance for smooth idle. I think Frank Robb told me there are like at least 10 different timing cam lobes, and probably more variations, so comparing what the timing tool get you to the feelers gage, would be challenging at best. Yes, some of them have the word “SET” on them. The makes an interesting conversation as where within that word “SET” do you stop and set the points? I believe that is why the timing tools were developed, because of the wildly varying possibilities with the feelers gage. And to be quite honest, the timing tool is faster. Really fast if you use the high dollar squawk box from Aircraft Spruce, because with that you don’t need to disconnect any wiring.
This may or may not answer your questions about your motor being hard starting. My guess is carb…Why you say?, Because you have spark, on both cylinders, so if you don’t get fuel, it wont run. Even if your timing is off, it will still run, just not well…
That is all I got…
Good luck
Richard
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com1 user thanked author for this post.
if you read the book you will find that setting the points at .020 on the high point of the cam is generally sufficient. It is more critical to have the points OPEN at the right instant . .020 is a guide .. openning on the cam markings in the video makes it perfect.
if you did set them at .020 and cleaned them properly your problem is likely elsewhere.
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The best spark is achieved when the points open as the polarity of the magnet changes (normally from north to south – but not always) as it passes over the middle of the coil. The factory gap setting will get you very close as to when it comes time to do maintenance as most won’t have a timing tool.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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if you read the book you will find that setting the points at .020 on the high point of the cam is generally sufficient. It is more critical to have the points OPEN at the right instant . .020 is a guide .. openning on the cam markings in the video makes it perfect.
if you did set them at .020 and cleaned them properly your problem is likely elsewhere.
You are correct, but for one little buggar of an issue.
What method is used to determine, on the many different cams, exactly where the high point it is?
This is more than likely why they switched to using the timing tools for their shops, it is easier, faster and wholeheartedly more accurate.
One would literally need to set up each cam they have for each motor, if different, on a spindle and using a dial indicator to know “where” exactly that high point is. There is NO visual marker, on any cam that I have seen that points to the exact spot, and it is a spot of maybe 1 degree of rotation on the cam, not 10 degrees or more like on one particular cam I recall seeing.
I am not in any way poo-pooing the use of feelers gages, I am merely pointing out that the use of the timing tool removes soooooo many other possible errors.
The “generally sufficient” comment, was before they developed the timing tools. But for me and my OMC’s, “generally sufficient” is not good enough….lol
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
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