Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Magneto Cam and Timming Tool Question
- This topic has 42 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 19 hours ago by
Kent Cochran.
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January 12, 2026 at 10:51 am #303289
I agree.. and I did buy one.
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January 12, 2026 at 10:56 am #303290I agree.. and I did buy one.
I knew that, my post was more to explain to those that did not know, why they work better, and what the issues are for th eold way of dong things.
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January 12, 2026 at 11:41 am #303292I suggest removing the spark plugs and putting a teaspoon or less of Mixed gas directly into each cylinder. If it starts and runs a bit, you need to look at fuel. If it still coughs and spits, look at ignition.
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January 12, 2026 at 2:26 pm #303297Guys,
here are some before and after photos, if you need different angles let know.
If all looks good here. maybe I do have a fuel issue.
Thanks, for all the advise. I will look into these suggestions this evening when I get off work today.
Kent Cochran
1949 10 hp Johnson QD-10
1951 5 hp Johnson TN-27
1952 10 hp Johnson QD-13
1956 7.5 hp Evinrude 7520
1957 7.5 hp Evinrude 7522January 12, 2026 at 3:37 pm #303303You have spark and compression. All you need is fuel. Try what Charlie (Olcah) suggested and see what happens.
David Bartlett
Pine Tree Boating Club Chapter"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
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January 12, 2026 at 4:10 pm #303304Well, the timing tool will make your timing more exact for sure. But, in your case, setting the points to .020″ on the high point of the cam will surely get it running. So, I think you have some other issue going on here.  Are you sure you have the coils connected to the proper plugs? Are you sure you have the coil primary leads connected to the proper point set?
To me, it just sounds like the ignition is 180 degrees off, could be as simple as the plug leads being backwards. When the plug leads are backwards, the engine will only cough/spit/backfire, it will never run.
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January 12, 2026 at 5:50 pm #303312Thanks for every one’s input, I will check out all of these suggestions and get back to everyone with my findings.
Kent Cochran
1949 10 hp Johnson QD-10
1951 5 hp Johnson TN-27
1952 10 hp Johnson QD-13
1956 7.5 hp Evinrude 7520
1957 7.5 hp Evinrude 7522January 12, 2026 at 10:45 pm #303330
Here is something you might check. Mark the center of the magnet on the flywheel so you can see it. Rotate the motor till one set of points start to open. The coil that your mark is at should be wired to the set of points that just opened.  If not, at some point, you got the coil wires to the points switched. Â
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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January 12, 2026 at 11:26 pm #303331Doesn’t the picture show the coil’s green wires going to the proper points …under the coil passing by the condensers and attached to the points & condenser wire ?
Condensers are new but maybe they test bad.
No results yet on the front coil being wired to the top plug.        Metallic strand wire used ?
what is the measured OHMS value from plug boots to engine frame ?
I have no diagram of parts on the QD13 but it is possible the carb is a bit strange compared to later year models
suggest you read up on early QD-FD carbs in the johnson service manual section..  page 117 and up a few
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January 13, 2026 at 5:52 am #303332Kent said he has good blue spark both cylinders…
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