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You have the hardest part to find. The magneto plate from the 7.5 hp KE4 & Mark7 is the same as the 10 hp. magneto. They are plentiful and not expensive. The control handle from your Scintilla plate will work. Now the flywheel. They do come up for sale from time to time but are expensive. I know of one but its $125.00 + $14.00 shipping. I will PM you the contact info if your interested and the email of a member who I’m pretty sure has a plate to sell you. However if your making this change because your motor became harder to start, then the bottom cylinder started dropping out, and now it wont run at all, changes the crankshafts seals (epically the lower one) before you spend any more money.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
Looks like the carburetor cam on the Scintilla mag is different from the Phelon. Is it a direct fit or does the cam need to be switched?
I’ve got the complete Phelon Magneto less the speed control handle. Also have the 398-241 Phelon magneto cam and the flywheel.
My main concern is getting the correct timing for the Phelon as the motor had the Scintilla mag. I have the KG7 parts list and the Where used book showing the various part numbers used on the KG7 and Mark series motors. Looks like there are numerous combinations of the two mags.
The motor hasn’t been run in years, there is no history of how it ran. I had nearly all the parts to do the Phelon conversion.
You have the hardest part to find. The magneto plate from the 7.5 hp KE4 & Mark7 is the same as the 10 hp. magneto. They are plentiful and not expensive. The control handle from your Scintilla plate will work. Now the flywheel. They do come up for sale from time to time but are expensive. I know of one but its $125.00 + $14.00 shipping. I will PM you the contact info if your interested and the email of a member who I’m pretty sure has a plate to sell you. However if your making this change because your motor became harder to start, then the bottom cylinder started dropping out, and now it wont run at all, changes the crankshafts seals (epically the lower one) before you spend any more money.
Scintilla lever will interchange with the Phelon magneto. I don’t have part numbers. The flywheel and point cam from the 7.5 hp motor won’t interchange because the crankshaft is smaller on the Mark7 & KE4 . Are you sure you have the cam for the 10hp. motor? Does it fit on the crankshaft? On this type on ignition, when moving the magneto lever, your advancing or retarding the timing, so there is no correct timing. You will also need a different flywheel key than the one from the Scintilla. It would be a good idea to change the crankshaft seals and remove the fuel filter to check its condition, if it is still in there.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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Everything fits as it should. Thanks for your help. I did the conversion on a Mark 20 years ago but that’s a different animal.
Scintilla lever will interchange with the Phelon magneto. I don’t have part numbers. The flywheel and point cam from the 7.5 hp motor won’t interchange because the crankshaft is smaller on the Mark7 & KE4 . Are you sure you have the cam for the 10hp. motor? Does it fit on the crankshaft? On this type on ignition, when moving the magneto lever, your advancing or retarding the timing, so there is no correct timing. You will also need a different flywheel key than the one from the Scintilla. It would be a good idea to change the crankshaft seals and remove the fuel filter to check its condition, if it is still in there.
Scintilla lever will interchange with the Phelon magneto. I don’t have part numbers. The flywheel and point cam from the 7.5 hp motor won’t interchange because the crankshaft is smaller on the Mark7 & KE4 . Are you sure you have the cam for the 10hp. motor? Does it fit on the crankshaft? On this type on ignition, when moving the magneto lever, your advancing or retarding the timing, so there is no correct timing. You will also need a different flywheel key than the one from the Scintilla. It would be a good idea to change the crankshaft seals and remove the fuel filter to check its condition, if it is still in there.
That may be in need of clarification…
While the mag lever does in fact change the timing…I do know there is a timing process involving a ring and a pointer for use with these Mercs. It would be similar to the pointer used by OMC… That ring and pointer certainly helps set both cylinders to fire 180 degrees apart, and it may in fact also set the points to fire at the correct piston to TDC relationship..
I have NEVER used one but know of them, J. MacIntosh ,(spelling?) probably has them…
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comThere is the “timing” of when the points open, and you have the timing where the plug fires in relation to the location of the piston. The timing of where the plug fires in relation to the location of the piston is determined by the positing of the magneto plate, controlled by the lever attached to it. The “timing” of when the points open is a setting. Having both cylinders to fire 180 degrees apart is a result. The best spark is achieved if the points open exactly when the magnetic polarity changes as the magnet pass over the coil. If you achieve this with both set on points, they will open exactly 180 degrees apart from each other. This is done using a time tool. Richard makes them for the OMC universal magneto. If you don’t have a timing tool, you follow the factory point gap setting. While this gets you very close, its not as precise as having a timing tool. People who have used Richards tool, on the OMC magneto, say they notice an improvement in how their motors run. It could very well be true as the coils would now be producing there best spark.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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