No spark

[Mallett]

I just picked up another kg7 this one has a quicke lower unit it should make the midget flyer fly.(I’m so excited to run it up the river) So before I get started. No spark in one of the cylinders, start by trying to clean the contacts in the coil? it was running two years ago. I think I’ve learned I need to learn more and take more time. So start by cleaning the gas tank a few dozen times, then clean the carburetor a couple of dozen times, check lower unit grease, do I force the old grease out or just add new unit it bubbles out? I got 4 propellers as well should I put one on before I start it in the tank? Add fresh fuel. IAny other preflight checks I should be thinking about?
thanks

[Waunnaboat]

If you can find new coils, I would personally replace them so that they do not cause any hassle in the future, especially for a racing motor that you will likely be using often, but cleaning the contacts (and probably replacing the condensers) would be a good start if this is not the path you want to take.  I don’t know anything about the KG-7 racing low unit, as I have only had one KE-7 that has given me a ton of unidentifiable (to me) trouble, but if the lower unit is similar there may be a screw by the bolt to remove the lower unit from the tower that you can pump grease from the bottom to the top until all of the old grease is out, but I do not imagine that is the same on the racing LU.  If your test tank is big enough, I would put a propeller on so that you can better get a sense of how it pumps water with the propeller on, and yes, I would use fresh fuel.  That is just my uneducated opinion, but I wish you well with this motor, and hope that it has enough might to put the midget flyer well past 35.

"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."

[Tubs]

 

The gear case lube should have been changed at the end of the season it was last ran. You should check to see if that is the case. That is a good indication if it has, and may indicate its ready to go. If it hasn’t, and there is any indication of water, I would be apply your same method for the carb and gas tank, while inspecting its condition before using it.  It would be a good idea to clean and check the gap on both sets of points. No matter what ignition you have, replacement coils are not available for the Phelon or the Bendix. There are substitutes coils that require some modification.    

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Mallett]

Thanks guys, what one do I have?

I did some cleaning and got spark in both cylinders, the light didn’t seem as bright on one of the pistons. Dose it matter? Moving on to the lower unit now. I have the clean tank and carburetor from the kg7 that I’m pretty sure I over heated, so hopefully switch them out with the clean ones. I’ll be sending pics of the props I acquired have no idea what one to use.

[Waunnaboat]

I think that is the phelon mag, but I could be wrong.  This video from tubs (which would undoubtedly be sent by somebody else later) may help if cleaning the points and replacing condensers does not work.  Maybe I am just imagining it, but now that I think about it, the quickie lower unit should be fast with one person in the midget flyer, but it may have issues with two people?  maybe keep lower pitch props on your radar if you have issues planing out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxPHe8EPe1Q

"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."

[jeff-register]

I start with total magneto didassembly & removal. Clean the mag plate including the block mating surface. Try fitting the plate on the block without any lube to see how good thw fit is. Remember from block to plate IS an electrical connection, too loss equals bad commection weak spark & reversing currents. Do the OMC coil conversion, your old voils+ headaches, Match electricalls the capacitors (condensers) to the OMC coils. Take apart pints assemblys one at a time & ckeck for all insulating washers & bushings, clean very well. Now the points contact area. Clean & sand contct surface flat & clean. Ive used a burnishing tool to add material to contact area to fill any voids. This tool has been used in electronic relays contact surface restoation adds material to contacts. Lools like a big pen with insertable material for metal transfer. Can be found ay electronics mail order sites on line. Check assembly with an ohm meter for faults & no resistance connections. Last if you need hi voltage spark plug wire go to your local neon shop & buy G.T.O. gas tube only type wire, it replaces plug wire at 7mm/ rated at 15,000 volts. use hi flex type GTO, can be had for  a buck a foot. NO SHIPOPING TOO. If still have problems add a small bonding wire from under the mag to the block for a super bonding connection. Ive had to add this bonding wire before on a mag because it had a current reverse & fried the other points, got so hot they turned gold.

[Tubs]

That is a phelon ignition. Those coils look to be a recent replacement, possibly NOS. Cant tell about the condensers. If they don’t look new as well, they likely weren’t replaced with the coils. If that is the case, I’d be replacing them. I’d be checking the condition of the sparkplug wires, and their connection to the coil. Also the mag looks dirty. I’d clean it, and lubricate the appropriate parts.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

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