oil

[Anonymous]

what oil and weight do you recommend for my 1920 motors
would like to use one oil
is 8 oz per gal ok?

[chinewalker]

Use the modern TCW3 rated oil of your choice/preference. Any modern oil with that rating will be much, much better for the motor than anything available way back when.

Most folks I know running 1920s iron use 8:1 ratio, or in that ballpark. It’s what I run in my ’28 Quad and Speedsters.

[outbdnut2]

quote chuck86:

is 8 oz per gal ok?

Use 16 oz/gallon, That is 8 to 1. Amazing how they hardly smoke at all when they get warmed up and running on this much oil.
Dave

[Mumbles]

For Johnson owners:

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[twostroke]

Saved and printed. Thanks!

Jim

I say "pardon me" a lot. I had a 20H, then raced open mod sleds.

[garry-in-michigan]

The problem with some antiques is that the production specs of that era were of greater latitude than the precision machines of today produce.. No seals were used and many depended or grease or heavy oil to seal the crank case. (Many Row Boat Motors have grease cups on the crankshaft bearings) Todays oils are fantastic as far as eliminating ware but some antiques may require a shot of heavy weight oil to properly seal the motor. Unfortunately this promotes carbon formation, requiring periodic service to remove. If ignored, carbon flaking off the combustion chamber con score cylinder walls. At none time this was thought to be caused by a lack of lubrication which made them recommend more oil . . . 😆

[Anonymous]

quote Garry in Tampa:

The problem with some antiques is that the production specs of that era were greater latitude than the precision machines of today produce.. No seals were used and many depended or grease or heavy oil to seal the crank case. (Many Row Boat Motors have grease cups on the crankshaft bearings) Todays oils are fantastic as far as eliminating ware but some antiques may require a shot of heavy weight oil to properly seal the motor. Unfortunately this promotes carbon formation, requiring periodic service to remove. If ignored, carbon flaking off the combustion chamber con score cylinder walls. At none time this was thought to be caused by a lack of lubrication which made them recommend more oil . . . 😆

[Anonymous]

quote Garry in Tampa:

The problem with some antiques is that the production specs of that era were greater latitude than the precision machines of today produce.. No seals were used and many depended or grease or heavy oil to seal the crank case. (Many Row Boat Motors have grease cups on the crankshaft bearings) Todays oils are fantastic as far as eliminating ware but some antiques may require a shot of heavy weight oil to properly seal the motor. Unfortunately this promotes carbon formation, requiring periodic service to remove. If ignored, carbon flaking off the combustion chamber con score cylinder walls. At none time this was thought to be caused by a lack of lubrication which made them recommend more oil . . . 😆

My understanding is TC-W3 is oil that has passed certain standards. I have thought of using Tohatsu 2 stroke outboard oil.
Can I add one or two ounces of 40 wgt non detergent oil or will this give me problems .. Otherwise can just use 40wgt non detergent. Only plan on running this a 3 or 4 times this summer. Same applies to my other 4 1920 motors.

Thanks for your Input

chuck86 So far 154in of snow – more on the way.

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[garry-in-michigan]

Adding a little SAE 40 wt non-detergent helps. That is what I do on my well used antiques. Steve Woods does not, but his antiques are rebuilt to very exacting specifications. . . 😉

[chris-p]

Be aware of WHICH motor you are running as well. Racing motors for one obviously require more oil than trolling motors do.

[Author]

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