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January 17, 2018 at 2:32 pm #9026
A couple of questions regarding an OMC Fold-Light:
It’s serial number 4030131. Can anyone tell me what year this motor is?
The sheave plate says OMC. What would be the right tank decal for this motor?
Carb: This has a Tillotson LS1A carb. I’ve found that his carb was used on
"LS-1A Evinrude Motors Corp Outboard, Bicycle & Foldlight 1929-30"
Looks like I need a better inlet valve. Is it likely that this same inlet valve was used on other Tillotson carbs, hopefully more common models? If this valve looks so harsh, is it likely that the seat is equally affected? I haven’t had a chance to try it yet. I just looks like trouble to me.
Seems to me that there should be a gasket between the carb and the cylinder head but there wasn’t one there on this motor and I don’t see one in the parts diagram.
January 17, 2018 at 2:50 pm #69806Dave,
The motor is listed as 1931, 2.75 hp. Glad to see someone picked that up last Saturday. I have one and it’s actually pretty fast.
Be extremely careful with that carb, including mounting it. I believe there should be a gasket between the carb and the jug, but be careful to use something that’s the correct thickness. The carb needs to be in the correct location to be able to bolt up the supports. It is extremely fragile, compared to most, and will be difficult to replace. Do NOT carry the motor with the folding handle!
I believe there are ELTO, Lockwood, and OMC versions of the motor, and decals available for each one. A little hunting should turn something up. I have one for mine, but I can’t recall where it came from. I think the correct one is in the photo below.
Send me some dimensions of the carb float valve and needle, I can probably match something up from a different Tillotson carb. I wouldn’t try too hard to get the seat out. If it’s stuck, let it be and just replace the needle. If the motor floods, use the fuel shutoff valve to fill the carb before starting, close it, then open it back up when the motor is running.
Tom
January 17, 2018 at 3:58 pm #69810Thanks, Tom! A lot of good advice there. What do you mean when you say the "correct" thickness for the gasket? I believe what you say about the carb being fragile. This one is repaired, probably with JB Weld.
I didn’t get this motor at Framingham. I noticed one in the pictures Ray posted. I’d like to know if that one is still available.
I’ll get some measurements of the float valve and needle and send you a pm. Thanks for your help!
-DaveJanuary 17, 2018 at 4:03 pm #69812Huh, then I don’t know who ended up with the one from Framingham. I didn’t imagine they were falling out of the trees. Maybe Jim.
Anyway, when you go to mount up the carb, try it with no gaskets and check the alignment of holes for the tiller, carb, cylinder, and whatever else is involved. I think if you use a gasket that’s too thick, you’ll put more strain on the carb body.
Ignition is interesting on this one too. I don’t know whey they went with a design-du-jour, not the conventional one for that era.
Tom
January 17, 2018 at 4:36 pm #69816I have the same engine.It has no gasket,just a little sealer.It starts and runs well.As stated,these carbs are prone to cracks in the area where your pic shows the dark streak.Perhaps a repair?
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