Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Pre-war Mercury/Wizard gear cases
- This topic has 27 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 4 years ago by green-thumbs.
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March 25, 2020 at 9:43 pm #198384
The rest of the story…
March 26, 2020 at 10:29 am #198423Louis, a little note about those leather seals. If a need arises for a wider seal an old belt works pretty good. For some strange reason my belts seam to be shrinking around here. I have plenty of material for a thicker seal!
dale
“get’em wet don’t let’em set”
March 26, 2020 at 10:44 am #198431Not to hog the thread or to drift too far off topic.
3 slit type water pump housing uses a standard seal part number
The two oscillator type water pumps use a packing material.
Plumbing valve stem packing is ideal…if you can get by the
ingredient in title. For those that want originality, I am pretty sure
factory installed this type material.
LouisTwin cylinder gear case requires 2 thin steel shims ahead of prop
shaft gear. These are often left out or rusted. McMaster Carr and
others will have 0.010″ thick for loose fit on 0.500″ shaft.- This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by green-thumbs.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by green-thumbs.
March 26, 2020 at 11:25 am #198439Twin cylinder gear case also requires a steel shim and bronze spacer
Take note of order steel shim is between bronze spacer and bronze bushing and the bronze spacer is atop the pinion gear. The easy
way to get it all together is to have gear case in hand so it can be
turned upside down, insert drive shaft just far enough to hold shim
and spacer, then drop pinion gear in, Then hold gear case open end
down while manipulating drive shaft and gear with fingers until
things line up and drive shaft slips into place,
There are other ways to do it, but, take it from a lazy man, the other
ways are less fun.edit
Only the 14/19 gear sets require these shims ans spacer. Some pinion
gears have a tall hub, shim and spacer not required. However, the
shims on prop shaft are still needed.Gear case for a single cylinder model have a 12/22 gear set and do
not require shims or spacer.- This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by green-thumbs.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by green-thumbs.
March 26, 2020 at 4:56 pm #198486I used scrap leather that was on hand. I found that when soaked with
Neetsfoot oil, the leather relaxed an formed into a torus shape easily
when installed. Thicker leather might also work. Only advice I can offer
regarding a tight belt is Diet and Exercise…aka Starve ans Sweat.
A torus is like Bunt cake pan,
A few comments back, the question of a spring being needed with the
16 square hole water pump…I now believe the question relates to the
use of a spring circling the cam over the pin.
That depends…if the original unaltered cam is used the answer is NOHowever, that is not the whole story…the 7 slit type oscillator AND the
Impeller Drive Hub of 3 slit each have a groove around cam or drive hub over the holes for pin in each. When set up for use with the rubber
clutch a long pin is passed thru the Impeller Drive Hub or the
7slit oscillator cam…in this case serving as both drive pin and sheer
pin. IF clutch is not used then a short pin is installed in Impeller Drive
Hub or 7 slit oscillator cam, this pin is short enough so as not to
protrude into groove and the circular spring is snapped into the groove
securing pin in place. Propeller is driven by sheer pin installed in the
other hole in prop shaft.Since the 16 square hole oscillator cam design locates the pin holes
differently the circular spring would not work even if the cam had
a groove machined.Now the kicker, since the holes in all prop shafts for Early K Models,
installing 7 slit impeller in 16 slit water pump is doable, the circular
spring would be needed. I suspect the clutch might also be retrofitted
excluding need for short pin and spring. I have not done a fit or try
so this may or may not be so. I do have a water pump with the
cam swap and I am looking for a circular spring of right size. The clutch can NOT be used with the original unaltered oscillator cam
due to the way pin and cam interact.It is an interesting fact that one prop shaft part # served all three
water pump with or without the clutch. A lot of forethought went into
a seemingly simple item.
I believe all the above opinion is in agreement with the facts.
Louis- This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by green-thumbs.
March 28, 2020 at 2:07 pm #198674Not that I wish to do anything inappropriate on this site, but, I find myself
short a couple of the plain Mercury stamped aluminum rope starter plates. I have cylinders, water jackets, and similar parts to swap
LouisApril 1, 2020 at 5:07 pm #198982One who knows, advised me that the grease seal cup, although very often missing, was originally installed in both versions of the oscillator
water pump. I have 9 prewar Kiekhaefer outboard motors…one still has
the grease seal cup.
For some reason grease seal cup was very unpopular.
LouisApril 8, 2020 at 8:23 pm #199469According to NEW PARTS LIST for MERCURY MODELS manufactured
1939 – 1953 The use of Shim, Prop Shaft Gear Part #15 – 24679 is optional, when required only one is needed and it not used on pre war
twins or KB4-1 or KB5, (steel shim 0.010″)
The bronze spacer and steel shim are used on ALL twin cylinder drive
shafts.
Apparently KD4-1 and later KD twins may or may not need ONE shim
to obtain proper gear lash for smooth operation.
It may possibly be that prior twins could benefit ,but, parts manual does
not show shim as part of the KB5 or KB4-1 or prewar twins.
Louis
Note: the New Parts List was issued by Mercury when it adopted a systematic part numbering scheme in the early 1950s. The 2 prior
part numbering systems were converted to the new system. The New
Parts List, if carefully read, is a source of insight to figure out what is
missing and what is correct for a given model and year. I have found
that there is always more to learn. -
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