Prop won’t turn, but the powerhead does

[fleetwin]

I’m assuming Dan and Joel have it figured out now, couldn’t make sense of what was going on. You won’t need the new retaining screws or threaded alignment rods until reassembly. Please don’t try to substitute those three retaining screws with hardware store equivalents.
The tough part will be getting that crusty bearing housing out of there. The next hurdle will be the large snap ring(s) that hold the retainer in place.

[johnyrude200]

Fortunately the retainin screws are all fine so no need touse knock offs. Just trying to figure out how to pull the bearing housing out right now.

Dan explained to use a slide hammer with some sort of hook attachment to grab the spline(s) of the bearing. But Im having trouble figuring out how this would work.

I mean, there are two different threads in those 3 orifices; a fine thread from the retaining screws and course ones in the bearing housing itself (5/8th thread) that are larger in diameter to accommodate those narrower screws.

Whats holding the bearing in? Can I just use the OMC puller with three pieces of threaded rod as usual?

From the parts diagram, those 2 snap rings – are they just in a couple of recessesin the gearcase housing? Then the reverse gear is behind that plate…

[retiredoz]

http://s3.postimg.org/4d74gi1qb/50hp.jpg
http://s16.postimg.org/480ihlpl1/50hp2.jpg

I think something got lost in translation here, but if you’ve got good eyesight…

[retiredoz]

http://s24.postimg.org/wjzxow3gl/50hp.jpg

http://s29.postimg.org/ifx9uvd8n/50hp2.jpg

This seems a bit better. Shows the pulling ‘legs’ I mentioned earlier – something to use with your flywheel puller.

[jeff-register]

Oz,
Never know where they might of ended up! I asked a few questions at Johns Old Merc site & I wasn’t in the correct "FrankenMerc section even though all my parts came from Mercury, Just in different motors now. I was swapping a Mk 55 powerhead only using a Mk 30 crank to build a 25% higher cu in Mk 30 under the hood item. Should of built a driveshaft & been good with a U-joint above the gearset. Sounds like this guy built a beast too using all OMC part numbers. I’m confused now!!
Jeff

[johnyrude200]

Oh my goodness! Thank you! I actually own these tools (acquired from a closed marina/retired mechanic) and didn’t know what they were for. I actually found their original P/N’s through the special tools catalog, but just didn’t know how they were applied. Thank goodness for pictures!!!!!!!!!

😀 😆 🙂 😎

[retiredoz]

I wish you luck with your venture ! My limit on lowers is about the old Bigtwin !

[fleetwin]

You may need the help of a torch if the bearing housing is corroded in place. Be real careful, those long bolts may pull/strip out of the bearing housing sending pieces flying.

[green-thumbs]

Don’t give all the blame for "Special Tools" to ECK. Auto industry has had them at least since Ford Model T first rolled off the line.
Louis

[johnyrude200]

The bearing came out smoothly using the hook pullers, but on this one, it’s not necessary to use the hooks with the universal puller tool. You can just thread 3 x 5/16th rods into the bearing housing orifices and that would be easier. The plate behind the housing is what has the fine, 1/4 threads which won’t come out unless the two circlips (both aft of it) are removed

Can somebody recommend a good set of circlip pliers to remove these two circlips in the gearcase housing. Nothing I have is really good enough for this job and I’m stuck. They are fairly beefy circlips, and given they are recessed so far into the gearcase housing, it’s tough to get any sort of grip on the handles to actually remove the circlips.

[Author]

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