Proper winter storage

[nj-boatbuilder57]

I’ve read about trapped water in an engine’s nooks & crannies freezing, expanding and cracking various castings inside an engine. In fact, the spare lower that I recently rebuilt had just such a break in the casting under the impeller plate.

I’ve read people bemoan broken engines because they were stored standing up. I’ve also read the same about engines laying down. Frankly, I don’t have a clue what the "right way" to store an engine for the winter is.

I could…and I might…simply put my engine (Golden Javelin) in my basement shop. I don’t really want it there, but I could deal with it without too much inconvenience. Still, I’d really like to hear from you all: What’s the "right way" to store the engine? It’s presently in my garage…protected from direct exposure to the elements, but still subject to freezing temperatures.

What do you think?

[frankr]

It is designed to self-drain in the upright position, and that is the correct way. The damage you mentioned about below the pump plate is just a matter of "Stuff Happens" and not much one can do about it other than taking it apart. Not practical, of course. Besides, it is pretty rare to see that happen.

[chris-p]

Always store the UPRIGHT. They are self draining, as long as they are vertical. That being said, small pockets of water can still get trapped. I tilt them back and forth a few times, to try to get the pockets of water out, before storing them vertically.

Always change your gear oil and crush washers before winter. Should be done annually, and that is a good time to do it in case there is water intrusion.

I mist my motors with WD 40 and then wipe off before storing to prevent corrosion. This is a good time to clean up any old chunks of grease, and grime, and get the motor clean. Re grease all applicable ZERK fittings. I usually take off the tiller grip, clean and re grease under it as well.

On the last run, add MARINE FUEL STABILIZER to the fuel tank. Run at least 10 minutes to ensure the stabilized fuel is through the system. At the dock, disconnect the fuel line…as it is about to die, blast FOGGING OIL into the carb throat to kill it. You can then pull the carb drain screw to ensure it is empty. Then remove spark plugs, spray more fogging oil into cylinder, and more fogging oil into crankcase through carb throat, and pull over the recoil a few times to distribute it. On the last pull, hold the recoil out, let compression bleed off, then slowly let rope recoil. This prevents the water pump impeller from flipping backwards on itself, breaking a vane in the spring when you take it out for the first run.

After all of this, remove the prop, pull off any old fishing line that may have wrapped around your prop shaft, and re grease the prop shaft. I usually inspect the shear and cotter pin, and replace as needed.

Now your motor is protected and safe until Spring.

[rjoynt]

In my experience, cracked lower units are caused by water in the lower unit where gear oil is supposed to be. Keeping it in a warm environment is preferable but not always practical. Best way if kept in a frozen area I’d to either drain some gear oil out or put in fresh oil. Either case, put a note on the motor so that you remember what you did. Memories sometimes fail!

[rjoynt]

In my experience, cracked lower units are caused by water in the lower unit where gear oil is supposed to be. Keeping it in a warm environment is preferable but not always practical. Best way if kept in a frozen area I’d to either drain some gear oil out or drain it totally and then put in fresh oil. Either case, put a note on the motor so that you remember what you did. Memories sometimes fail!

[nj-boatbuilder57]

The lower was drained at the end of the season…no water found. It was refilled with new gear oil and pressure tested.

I’m pretty sure all of the water has drained, and I appreciate the information. Thanks…

That said, there’s another new thread about changing the seal on the bottom of the crankshaft, which is something I didn’t do when I built this engine. It has me thinking that maybe I should put the engine in my basement shop and do the lower seal as a winter project. Thinkin’ about it….

[20mercman]

I just started winterizing motors tonight. I did 7 of my Mercury 200’s, and have a lot more to go. I will plan to winterize all of my runners. Even if I have not had them on the boat this year, starting them up, give the gears some exercise and get them up to temperature. The first thing I do is pull the drain plug on the lower unit, and if there was any water, it will be the first thing to drain out. If not, if the color is OK, I just make sure it is up to level and plug it back up. I have a tank of 16:1 that I have added Sea Foam stabilizer to. I then pull the fuel line, and run start fogging while the fuel runs out. I then pull the plugs to add a table spoon of TCW-3 in each cylinder and pull it through. I make any notes on what may need attention and add it to my spread sheet. I let them drain, wipe them off and place them back on the rack.

Steve

[jerry-ahrens]

I’m happy to see that someone is asking about winterizing their motor. So many outboards are just shut off and left to set all winter, without fogging or changing the gear lube or anything else. All good information!

[outbdnut2]

Another easy storage step – I close the choke on all of my motors when not in use – keeps small critters from crawling in and making themselves at home!

I think I’ll also start covering exhaust outlets with tinfoil formed over them to keep out larger critters. The idea came to me a couple of years ago after I bought a 1958 35 Johnson (RDE-19) that had a mouse nest in the lower cylinder. Could see some of it when I removed the spark plug.
Dave

[crosbyman]

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/col … ndex11.htm

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

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