Home Forum Ask A Member RD-19 wiring cutout and kill switches

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #196180
    Geer Pyron
    Participant

      I’m putting my RD-19 back together and have hit a little problem with the wiring. I feel really dumb considering it’s not an electric start, and in fact doesn’t have any electrical accessories other than a cutout switch. My question is, should both sets of breaker points be wired to that switch? All the info I’ve seen indicate only one. However, there were two wires coming out of the mag plate, each connected to different breaker points. There was no merc switch and no kill switch. But, I think I would like to install a kill switch. How? Another question, what size and type of wire should I use? The wire on it was obviously not original.
      While I’m asking questions, I have another.
      I’d like to streamline the motor a little. Other than the obvious safety considerations, is there any reason I shouldn’t remove the neutral start safety lock (the link from the roller cam up to the top of the flywheel). I promise I’d put a warning/caution sticker at the pull start handle. And while streamlining, can I remove the fuel saver thing? I promise I’ll save all the parts for the NO (next owner, when I die).
      Thanks for any input,
      Geer

      JMGP

      #196186
      bobw
      Participant

        US Member

        The cutout switch is only wired to one set of points. A kill switch would have 2 wires, 1 to each set of points.

        Guess you could remove the starter lockout link if you wanted to but it’s a safety issue for sure.

        Can’t comment on removing the fuel saver rod.

        Bob

        1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
        1954 Johnson CD-11
        1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
        1958 Johnson QD-19
        1958 Johnson FD-12
        1959 Johnson QD-20

        “Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
        "Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

        #196189
        crosbyman
        Participant

          Canada Member - 2 Years

          see picture

          omc-kill-cct

          Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

          • This reply was modified 4 years, 2 months ago by Mumbles.
          #196191
          Geer Pyron
          Participant

            Thanks bobw.
            I decided against 86ing the the extra baloney. Or adding any.
            Gonna use 14 ga automotive wire.
            Hard to find itty-bitty ring terminals!
            Gotta add though how dreamy it is to work on a relatively clean and well kept motor!
            The guy I got it from told me it had been “rebuilt” six years ago. Whatever! But, I think it actually had been.
            I didn’t break a single bolt or screw. There was corn in the exhaust housing though. And hay in the cowling.
            Sitting for 6(?) years in a “storage facility” on the Cane River in NC.
            Thanks again!
            g

            JMGP

            #196193
            Geer Pyron
            Participant

              Just got the drawing.
              Helps fo sho.
              Was just kinda transcribing Arabic before.
              Gracias
              g

              JMGP

              #196195
              frankr
              Participant

                US Member

                When it left the factory, a RD-19 did not have any kind of stop switch, thus only one wire from the mag, to the vacuum cut-out switch. Installing a kill switch requires two wires from the mag. You have two wires, indicating the mag has been changed or a second wire installed. So you are all set for a kill switch.

                Why in the world would you remove the fuel saver rod???

                #196303
                Geer Pyron
                Participant

                  Hey Frank,all,
                  Gas is cheap!
                  Ha! just kidding.
                  I’m not sure why I want(ed) to take it off. I’m not going to now. But it just seems like extra baloney to me. And also, I’m not so sure how it works, or should work.
                  This motor is going on my fishing boat, not exactly preservation per-se, so I’m not being driven by that preservation mentality. I’m going to put a bunch of cane poles and throw nets and rusty hooks in it. I’m going to spray paint it all black and camo and put race car stickers on it! But, all this is moot ’cause I’m leaving it on.
                  And, it was a binge build. On the cheap. Every fuel hose clamp is different, 6. Three different fuel hoses. One yellow, one black spark plug wire. I ran out of my “Geer Pyron Yellow Wire”.
                  But I ordered a 100′ foot roll last night ’cause they should both be yellow! Ha!
                  I really should have been down in Lake Placid this weekend. Hope all those guys who went had a safe fun time!
                  Thanks,
                  Geer
                  PS Frank, did you sell that 3 hp Sea Bee (or was it a GoodYear?) you had at the Hamilton swap meet?
                  I regretted not buying it all the way home.
                  Only reason I didn’t is ’cause it ran and was in good shape. But dang, I want it!
                  G

                  JMGP

                  #196305
                  frankr
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    Geer, I planned to go to Lake Placid, but was having a bad day, health-wise. Anyhoo, I sold the Row Boat motor, but wound up bringing the Gale/Goodyear Sea Bee back home with me.

                  Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
                  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.