Removing Flywheel KG4 no threaded holes in flywheel ‘Updated’

[mikesea]

I removed the special dog 4 tooth starter nut and washer.
But all the little holes are filled with steel pounded in plugs on this KG4 flywheel.
Do I knock them in?
Or carefully drill the three out that should be used for a 3-position puller and thread if required?
Always thanks,
Mike

[Tubs]

Was a time when there wasn’t holes for a puller.
Here is how we do it. I need these for most all
the motors I work on but if you don’t weld you
can just jam 2 nuts together.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWgE9XiIBnk

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[mikesea]

Thanks Tubs,
The next time I was going to try me holding the flywheel and someone hitting the nut to break it loose off the taper. Never dis assembled a KG4 before I know the crankshaft end thrust is the ball bearings and they don’t cotton to being hammered.
Really thanks again,
Mike

[John Schubert]

Drill & tap where the metal plugs are & use a standard puller. Hammering on top of the crank even with 2 nuts you can damage the crank & even more so, the sintered metal cam that opens & closes the points.

[mikesea]

Thanks John,

Great warning for most people and I was careful.

I used Tub’s Idea because I have used that before. No nut welding for the guy’s that don’t have a welder, just take a couple of minutes and sand the end of the bolt smooth and 90* to the bolt. Buy yourself ‘Grade 8’ items bolt and nuts, one 1/2 fine tread bolt and two fine thread nuts. I screwed one nut up onto the bolt and the other only 3 1/2 turns then tighten the nuts with two wrenches. Screw it onto the crank and just snug it up……smack with hammer flywheel comes right off the taper. I used a 1.5 lb hammer if you have to hit it again stop and make sure the bolt is still tight before you strike it each time. That way you will not hurt the crankshaft threads.

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Worked perfect

Mike

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