Scott Atwater 1-30

[Matthew Pieklik]

Hi All, Working on my 1950 Scott 15 hp. Got the mag plate off. Getting new points from Big Rich and am in search for the correct WICO coils. Has anyone modified the laminated piece to accept OMC coils for this application? I may have to take this route. Also, I am getting ready to drop the lower unit. My Bristol spline wrench is coming in the mail Monday. I am not sure what to expect. Does the drive shaft come out of the block like a Johnson-Evinrude? And what about the shift shaft. My diagram shows the shaft bolted to the gear selector if I’m seeing it right. Do I have to unbolt something for the shift shaft? And I’m sure my impeller is toast. Please Let me know your thoughts – recommendations. Thanks , Matt.

[frankr]

Bristol spline wrench?? I had to look that up on the ‘net to even see what it is. Obviously, I’ve never owned one. Where is that needed on the Scott? Anyhoo, yes the drive shaft pulls out of the crank. It is a flat spring steel blade instead of a round splined shaft, that’s all. Sorry, I don’t remember how the shift disconnects.

[squierka39]

This was done to my 1-20 mag before I got it. I’m not sure if the laminates are the same size in the bigger motor.

[The Boat House]

https://www.enginads.com/otto/

• This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by The Boat House.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by The Boat House.

[The Boat House]

[frankr]

Just a note of caution. The coil laminations were assembled to the armature plate THEN the legs were cut to diameter in a lathe. What that means is the laminations are not swappable between motors, nor even from side to side within the same motor. Speaking of WICO and some others here, not OMC Universal mags.

[Matthew Pieklik]

Sharing some info, I got the correct tool to drop the lower unit. It’s a Bristol wrench.Scott used these fasteners to hold the lower unit on and also to hold the power head to the lower unit. Like an allen wrench but just a little different. The size was .251.

[Matthew Pieklik]

The Plot Thickens! I removed the lower unit my 1950 Scott Atwater 16 HP and made some discoveries. My lower unit is from a 1952 (3925) Model. I also found that the splined coupler between the upper and lower drive shaft has a crack in it. I don’t think that crack is suppose to be there. Can some one please verify my thought before I squeeze it with vise grips and get it welded. And check out the connection between the crank and the shaft. Who came you with that? ( I Know, Rocket Scientists) Also , I’m still looking for an impeller 509-5100 years 50-54. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Matt.

[HARRY D. NICHOLSON]

If you squeeze that coupler and then weld it, it may not fit on the splines again due to shrinkage after welding. Perhaps spline rust caused the crack due to expansion? I think your couplers are for adapting the newer, simpler, (better) lower unit. Early 509 used flat steel blades pinned to the driveshaft for crank and LU connections while later driveshafts were splined on both ends. The early 509 lower unit consisted of separate castings and therefore lots of additional seals-O-rings-grommets-gaskets. Later units were cast as one-piece in comparison.

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