Sea king 12 help

[wildwestclassics]

Hi. I have a 1954 gale search king 12. Model 9016a.
Here’s where I need help.
I picked this outboard up a couple weeks ago.
The guy ran it last November. He redid the ignition system but couldn’t get it to run right.
He said it would only run about half throttle. He thought the carburetor needed to be gone through. So I got it home, rebuilt the carburetor. It runs but does this. With the twist grip at full throttle, the motor is at about half throttle or less.twist it to half throttle and it shuts off. It’s like it’s out of adjustment.

Any thoughts?
Please help!

[dave-bernard]

Or is it running on 1 cyl. ?

[jeff-register]

Magneto been tested yet?

[slim60]

Mag and twist-grip out of synch?

[wildwestclassics]

I have spark and compression on both cylinders. I don’t know how to test a magneto. I do think they’re out of sink but I don’t know how to fix it. I’m mechanical but this is my first outboard repair

[frankr]

To sync spark and carburetor: There is a cam plate on the magneto armature plate that opens the carburetor throttle valve. Notice the mark on the cam. Cam should just barely be ready to start opening the carburetor when cam follower aligns with the mark. Should be closed anywhere below that point and progressively opens as mag plate rotates above that point.

Make sure it is running on both cylinders. "Has spark" is nice, but is it really running on both? Remove and ground one plug wire. Start motor and see how it runs, then do the same with the other plug wire. Chances are it won’t make any difference with one grounded but won’t run at all with the other one grounded. That is the good one.

[cajuncook1]

Wildwestclassics, you have a bunch of good guys in your corner helping you. Never rely too heavily on what the previous owner says or thinks what is wrong. Always inspect your motor and learn how to do repairs yourself. You will have the satisfaction of doing it your self and possibly save a good bit of money. Your best resource is the guys on this forum. A wealth of knowledge is available from these guys.

Here is a little tutorial a made up for another poster a while back. It should help with diagnostics and some understanding the magneto system.

– There is a process for evaluating the motor. If you are willing to take guidance we can help you out to determine what is going on with your motor.

* First thing is to check the compression yourself. Most auto places will loan out a compression tester for a deposit and money is refunding when you return it. Napa, Auto Zone, O’Reilys…etc.

Here is a video to show you how you can test your compression.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyCw4SiuT2I

Please report back your finds on compression.

**Second phase of diagnostics is to evaluate the ignition.

***Third phase of diagnostics is to evaluate the carburetor fuel delivery.

By putting the spark plug against the engine block is not adequate assessment of the health of the ignition system. You need to get a spark checker and gap it to at least 1/4 inch. The spark should be able to consistently jump the gap and be a strong blue snapping spark.

Here is a bunch of information that you can read and do the repairs yourself and know what is going on.

Here is some information that will help you evaluate your ignition system with the flywheel popped off.

Harmonic balance flywheel puller video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz1st4XnsX4

Your going to need to inspect your points, condensers and coils. They are located under the flywheel. Hopefully all you need to do is clean and regap your points and you might be in business. Still check your coils and condensers and plug wires.

Here are two link to show you how to test your coils and condensers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KT8rk5QWgS0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6eSXYmENDY

How to replace your coils, points and condenser. Please take digital pictures as you go, so it will help you return everything back in the right order. Keep cheap zip lock bags available to put your parts in so you don’t lose them. They are small.

Here is a diagram of a generic OMC (Johnson/Evinrudle/Gale) ignition assembly. You will have to remove the coil designated for the top cylinder and put the oil wicker in. It should be already be coated with a very light oil. (not grease). The purpose of the oil wicker is to lightly lubricate the outside riding surface of the points cam so the point shoes do not prematurely wear. If you look at the points they have little shoes that ride along the cam. Please make sure the (breaker)points cam is on the correct side or the ignition will be out of timing. It should have the word top machine written on the side facing up.

FYI: You can only set(gap) one set of points at a time. Put the flywheel nut back on(turn with a wrench or ratchet clockwise) to allow you turn the crankshaft. (Please remove both spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft and prevent accidental starting)

You gap the point to 0.020 when the point shoes is at the top(high point of the cam). It should have a mark along with the word top. Then you will turn clockwise to the next set of points (180 degrees) and set those points the same way. You will notice that the point of the previous set will be closed and when you come around again they will open up. *** When they are open no current is allow through. This is how you set your timing with the points.***

When you go to set the point’s gap. Very gently snug the anchor screw, then adjust the points by the adjusting screw and the feeler gauge until the feeler gauge is sliding through with slight resistance only. Then tighten the anchor screw. Repeat procedure with second set of points. Please make sure your hands are clean and the feeler gauge is clean, because oil on the points can foul them up and create resistance….poor or no no spark. ALways use a spark check to evaluate spark. It should jump minimum 1/4 inch. Blue sharp snappy spark.

Here is a picture of a spark check…Cheap $6

Here is a picture of how to tell which wire is going to the correct cylinder. Thanks to Garry for providing the picture on other post.

If your using the existing wires then cut about 1/4 inch of end going to the coil, so you have clean un-oxidized copper contacting the spiking in the coil. Twist the end of the spark plug wire onto the coil spike. If you have replaced the wires, make sure they are 7mm copper metal core and not the automobile stuff.

***** Please make sure two things*****

1.) Make sure all the wires are tucked away under the flywheel and not rubbing up against the cam or crank, because they will eventually get damaged and create a short, then no spark!!

2.) Make sure the coil heels (ends) are evenly lined up with the mounting boss.

Here are some pictures. (Compliments of JBJennings..nice fella)

Lining up the coil heel with the mounting boss prevents damage of the coils and the flywheel magnet, prevent rubbing as the flywheel turns.

*** Make sure the throttle is advanced to that start position***

Here is another picture that Garry (thanks Garry!!) supplied on another post with some modification.

Both diagrams, should answer your questions.

Here is some you tube videos that can help you diagnosis and properly setting your ignition and clean set your carburetor

Here are a bunch of videos that can help you along. They are long and detail, but I purposely made them that way, so someone new to motors would feel comfortable. So, I apologize if they are boring. I originally made those videos to help a guy who had little mechanic knowledge.

Here is a link on how to remove a flywheel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz1st4XnsX4

Here is a bunch of links to evaluate and repair your ignition

If your looking for a help cleaning your points and testing your ignition, then here are some YouTube videos that can help.

Not professional videos, but they can help guide you through ignition diagnostics and repair. The motor in the video is a 1968 Johnson 6hp.

Hopefully will give you a visual and help you some.

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTN8Ag_aj-8

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7A6d8me0Gw

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAlT32NnTJ0

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re6FgcB_Yok

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 5

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClGt6xHnb94

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 6

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taaSzp1Ev-0

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 7

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7w0xW48YCU

[SCOTT BOGUE]

Take your time, work through it, and you’ll end up with a good-performing motor. I love my 1954.

I was in the same place as you are now, with no knowledge, but these guys know their stuff and are always willing to help.

[wildwestclassics]

Thanks guys. I’m going to work through it this weekend doing what you said.

[wildwestclassics]

Ok. So I put a spark check on the bottom cylinder and left the top on. No start. Reversed the order. Starts. Runs the same. I have spark in the top plug but it’s only running on the bottom cylinder.

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