Home Forum Ask A Member Shift Lever

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  • #14391
    fleetwin
    Participant

      US Member - 2 Years

      OK, so you say that the blue shift lever is identical to the broken shift lever you removed from the engine. And, it sounds like you have not removed the gearcase at all, you checked the shift rod connector, it seemed OK. Correct so far?
      Is the shift lever loose on the shaft now, looks like the retaining screw is loose. Is the gearcase in neutral now even though the slot isn’t lined up with the threaded part of the shift shaft? I’m guessing it is not in neutral now, at least hoping so anyway. I would just try to push the shift lever into reverse, once the shift lever shaft is bottomed (in gear), the shift lever slot will move back to the threaded part of the shaft so you can get the retaining screw in place anyway.
      Don’t know if I am explaining what I’m thinking very well. But, I’m thinking you may not really have a problem. I’m guessing that the gearcase isn’t really in neutral even though the shift lever is in the neutral detent.

      #14405
      kevinrude
      Participant

        Here are some pages from my Johnson manual. Maybe between the diagrams and photos something will become apparent. The first set of images are from the powerhead section of the manual. The second set of images are from the lower unit section.

        #14408
        frankr
        Participant

          US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

          OK, perhaps I was suffering from old timer’s syndrome. As I look for that two-holer, all I can find is one for the 18hp, so maybe that is what was going through my mind. Not much help here.

          #14445
          necks
          Participant

            US Member

            Fleetwin, The shift arms are identical on two motors that I took off and compared all aspects of the way they fit, everything fit. I removed shift rod cover plate, remove screw, appeared to be not quite centered with notch, centered rod and put screw back in coupler. Didn’t appear to make any difference. The shift arm is loose on shaft now, and the shift arm coming out of motor is in neutral, as the picture shows, still a hole off before I can get 1/4-20 bolt to screw into shift lever. I will see if I can figure out what you are talking about and get back to you, after I try it. Thanks, Gene.

            #14449
            chinewalker
            Participant

              US Member

              Gene – are BOTH bolts in the coupler centered in their respective notches? You mentioned removing a bolt, singular. Just checking to make sure there both where they should be…

              #14454
              chris-p
              Participant

                What I meant was, does the prop spin freely, as in its in neutral? While the shift handle is vertical on the motor, in neutral as well?

                #14460
                necks
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Fleetwin, I moved shift arm coming out of motor downward, keeping finger pressure on arm, while rotating prop back and forth, shifted fully into reverse. Manually shifted arm into reverse position, looked the same, slot and hole were still a hole off. Repeated same procedure for neutral, finger pressure, arm coming out of motor, pressure upward, rotate prop, found neutral, moved arm from reverse to neutral, same slot and hole were still a hole off. Followed same procedure for forward gear, with same results. Shift arm bolts were in place and were loose, so inner arm could move freely without any bind. Does that sound like what you were trying to explain?.

                  Chinewalker, I took the shift coupler door, 2 screws, off, and removed the top bolt of coupler. I couldn’t see the bottom bolt of coupler, I haven’t had lower unit off yet, I would guess the lower unit will have to come off, to get at this bolt. That might be the next item to look at, What do you think?.

                  ChrisP, Everything works fine, the prop spin freely, shift arm is in neutral, goes in gear when using shift arm coming out of motor,like the picture shows, only difference is its a hole off for bolt on the outer shift arm. Does that make any sense?.

                  #14469
                  frankr
                  Participant

                    US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                    I just though to something: What if the lower shift rod has been replaced at some time (or the complete lower unit)? And what if the replacement originally was a long shaft and somebody cut it off to make it a short shaft. And what if that somebody didn’t cut off exactly 5"? If all these "what-ifs" are true, well there ya go……

                    One more what-if: What if the shifter fork in the lower unit is bent, as happens when somebody tries to force it into gear when not running and dog isn’t aligned? Again, if the fork is bent, there ya go……

                    #14472
                    necks
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      Frank, I was thinking the same thoughts. This motor is a long shaft, the other motor I have RD-19 35hp is a short shaft. I bought a long shaft conversion kit for the RD-19, then this motor came along, gone thru by a reputable dealer and couldn’t pass it up. My thought next was to check lower unit, and compare it to the parts that I have for the other Johnson, since I haven’t taken apart yet. Think I should just pull lower unit, and start at driveshaft and work down to shift fork, checking to see if hopefully I can find something out of place, before I tear gearcase apart?. Forget about shift linkage under powerhead, and concentrate on lower end, you figure that’s where its at?.

                      #14473
                      frankr
                      Participant

                        US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                        Yeah, I’m betting on a wrong length shift rod. Let us know.

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