Transom

[Steve Martin]

Tinman wrote:

Reacts with the aluminum and eats holes in it.

Ah, I suspected something like that but didn’t want to assume. I use the forum as my textbook. Thanks.

[olcah]

Remember when you use any transom plate you are adding to the thickness of the transom and the motor must get past the top lip.

[Tinman]

Yes the thickness could be an issue and I need to measure before buying one. Thanks

[olcah]

I find that when lifting a big twin onto the transom that I could use some extra clearance probably as the motor initially is not parallel to the transom.

[munimula]

Bruce Reinhart used to make the threaded AlumaCraft transom plugs. Pretty sure that he’s a member here. HTH

[george-emmanuel]

IMHO, use white oak for the inside transom. Yes, it will scar but not crush,—but so will aluminum. I like the marine plywood for the outside transom so the points on the clamp brackets can dig in and bite.

George

• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by george-emmanuel.

[dave-bernard]

I like bolting my motors on.

[Tinman]

Yes I got ahold of him and I think they are the same. Got do do some measuring to make sure.

[Tinman]

I did it just opposite! Lol oak on the outside and marine ply on the inside. With a piece of aluminum stock where the clamps rest to avoid crushing.

[jerry-ahrens]

Originally, Alumacraft used white oak on the inside and plywood on the outside. Both boards had a cork gasket between the board and the aluminum. If you do it the original way, you won’t need sealer…as the cork acts as a gasket and also dampens vibration. White oak is a very hard wood, so it’ won’t crush. Aluminum on the inside/outside increases the risk of the outboard walking off the transom in my opinion. All three of my Alumacrafts have had the transoms reinstalled the same as the factory. I used spar varnish to seal the boards. One of my boats transom lasted over 50 years…so they had a good design. I highly recommend using the cork like they did at the factory. It’s a very good design.

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