September 2, 2020 at 11:10 am #213285
I also just realized that my 115hp bubbleback had those vents you mentioned at the top of the cylinder water jackets. This 140hp does not have them. Clearly the engine was designed to work without them.. should i drill and 1/8th inch tap them in or just let it go? My other boat is a 120hp straight4 mercury inboatd jetboat it has this style hole in its chrysler force block but its plugged off.September 2, 2020 at 6:04 pm #213344
OK, sounds like that mystery is solved…I would have to look at it closely but I think it makes sense. Water exits powerhead adapter through that hose you had blocked off, then off to cool the exhaust elbow…
I see that the heads to this unit are vented, tied together, then exit through the elbow/muffler as well…
http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=a6780bbe-a9cf-4155-8013-c15af250e35bSeptember 5, 2020 at 7:09 pm #213573
anyone happen to know the correct torque for the bolts to bolt this 140hp at the base?
the bolts are 1/2″ hex drive and the shank of the bolts seem to be 3/8″ i believe.September 5, 2020 at 9:09 pm #213598
Making great progressSeptember 5, 2020 at 10:14 pm #213612
ok, I found a flywheel puller and popped the flywheel… looked nice inside, there were 4 flat head screws and keepers, I had to re-bend each keeper to stop them from grabbing onto the trigger so hard… was odd. all 4 were wrong? noone noticed before now that the trigger couldn’t move but me?
the flywheel nut is bigger than 1 1/4″ whats the correct socket (im making due with a strange grey 36mm I have now but its touch n go)
and the big question.. whats the correct torque for the flywheel nut?September 6, 2020 at 7:23 am #213618
OK, well I’m not sure what picture I missed…But, that upper main is not installed with its proper hardware… I see one of the sensor coil plastic bushing clamps (upper right) clamped down improperly and facing in the wrong direction… There is supposed to be four clamps, four smaller machine screws that thread into the upper bearing. Needless to say, the clamps point in towards the crankshaft. The clamps will usually keep the plastic bushing from rotating in the upper bearing, this is normal . The sensor coil assembly spins inside the plastic bushing. The OMC moly lube is used to lubricate the brass/bronze pilot bushing inside the sensor assembly. Use regular outboard oil to lubricate the plastic bushing. The correct flywheel nut torque is: 105 ft. pounds.
No comment on the home made puller rig, will just say don’t get hurt. You will need a heavy ring gear holder to torque the flywheel…
http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=6799ea59-4d96-43e7-88b6-fa36e884bdd6 This is the link to the BRP parts look up, you can find the turbo jet break down in here…September 6, 2020 at 2:10 pm #213647
Sorry I missed taking a pic of the flanges as I found them, all four were mounted correctly, Just too tight, had to modify all 4.. strange.
in the pic you saw I had already removed 3 flanges and one in the upper right I had just turned around.
I was able to hold the flywheel with 4 pair of vise grips strategically located, I guessed and torqued the flywheel to 140lbs (35 over).. seems to be ok for now tho.
That sanford n son Flywheel puller has come thru in the past, I keep it way in the back of the tool cabinet in a box labeled “stale crackers” and never admit ownership to anyone.
I had to pull the flywheel twice tho, after reading online that the flywheel and crack mating-surfaces had to be immaculately clean, and I had reassembled mine with oil everywhere. pulled and cleaned, then torqued.
next step is the fuel tank, replace fuel line, canvas hatch cover and seats!September 6, 2020 at 10:35 pm #213682
hooked up the garden hose water. engine runs cool. isnt’ happy about running till it gets warm… does little kickbacks.
Canvas started and finished in one night..
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.