Yes I agree too. But to find which plug wire goes where get some masking tape & wrap one plug wire for I.D. Next with the spark plugs removed & flywheel off, watch the marked wire coil as you turn the crankshaft for the points to open. The instant the points start to open stop & stick a long screwdriver into the bore to find which piston has come up to fire. That cylinder/points are a match. The other set must match too. Easy & works on any 2 cylinder mtr.
Be sure to use a meter putting every together as final assembly happens. I clean everything very well & wipe all traces of oil off using Windex as oil will conduct energy too & rob power from the spark plug too. I use vasoline on the rotating parts of the block & magneto plate for lubercation as well. Once both sets of points are set, rotate the magneto plate maybe 25% of the way & recheck gap, then 50, then 75%. If the gap remains the same you have little wear. If at 100% throttle the gap changes too much, reset the full throttle gap & work down till you stay with in range on the gap. May require a few times to get it with in range but keep at full throttle points setting at a correct gap range. It may run a little rough at slower RPM but we never run slow for long.
Another way to check is use a locking mike & check at different spots. Be sure to have the two adjustment side play screws set also. They are very touchy so keep everything spotless clean & no oil on the feeler gauge strips too. Final check with the meter to have no resistance across the contact points & wire termination.
