trailer tires and rims

[Pete]

With these smaller tires they can be DIY static balanced with a cheap target bubble level placed at the center of the rim (on a flat piece across the hole) then tire and rim placed in a tub of water and move weights around the rim edge to center the bubble in he cross hairs. Done it many times but not with these 8" trailer tires that didn’t need it. Before dynamic balancing machines were the norm the small tire shops had a static balance machine that had a target level bubble and that was it for balance. Worked pretty good in most cases, they of course had no idea how much weight to put on each side of the rim like dynamic balance machine would indicate so the weights needed were split in 50/50 on each side at same location as an approximation to keep the dynamic balance unchanged assuming it was OK or so they thought ❗

[amuller]

I once had a static balancing machine such as you describe, but the flotation technique is new to me.

Wonder how much a local tire shop would charge to balance.

[kirkp]

I found this blog after having a blowout on my travel trailer. Know the tires are bigger than what’s being discussed here but trailer tires is trailer tires. There’s enough info here about trailer tires that will make your head spin. In "theory" trailer tires are only good for about 5 years and then should be replaced. I know many are saying my tires are 20 years old and I haven’t had a problem. Trailer tires are unique in the way the sidewalls flex when turning which leads to premature failure. There’s also discussion about running them at less than the pressure stamped on the sidewall which leads to sidewall flex. IF regular replacement is done, running them at the rated pressure even though lightly loaded, there won’t be an issue with excess center tread wear. Anyway, just some random thoughts and enjoy the reading.
Kirk

http://www.rvtiresafety.net/

[vintin]

quote kirkp:

IF regular replacement is done, running them at the rated pressure even though lightly loaded, there won’t be an issue with excess center tread wear. Anyway, just some random thoughts and enjoy the reading.
Kirk

http://www.rvtiresafety.net/

Hi Kirk,

I do a lot of driving pulling around light weight aluminum boats at freeway speeds up to 70mph.

My experience is that rated pressure almost always results in more center wear.

Mine are usually loaded at 35% to 50% of rated weight as printed on the sidewall.

[kirkp]

VT, I guess I didn’t really complete the point here. No argument that there will be excessive center wear. The premise is that if tires are replaced every 5 years then they will be replaced before the tire wear becomes an issue. One thing I’d like to point out is that you might be exceeding the speed rating of your tires. I would guess that most trailer tires are rated for a max of 65 mph.

As for what pressures to run tires at my thinking is that it might not be as big an issue for a single axle trailer. Don’t know if you’ve ever had a chance to look at the tires on a dual axle trailer during a turn. You’ll see the tires have some serious side loads put on them. This is where you can really run into problems running them at less than the rated pressure as this allows severe flexing of the sidewalls which can lead to excessive heat buildup, separation of the cords and premature failure.

Bear in mind that a lot of what I’m talking about relates to travel trailers and such. However I think some of this also carries over to any other type of trailer. The guy that writes that blog has like 40 years in the tire industry working for manufacturers.

[vintin]

I’ve seen dual axles on turns. I’ve got a 12,000lbs dump trailer and a flat bed for moving equipment rated the same. They both have 16 inch tires/duel axles. They are a lot different then the boat trailers most on this forum use.

I usually do only go 65 but I’ve been caught up in traffic going 70 plus on occasion. About all I run on the small boat trailers are the 4.8x 12" wheels and tires rated for about 1,100lbs each. I may put as much as 3k miles a year on boat trailer tires and get maybe a year and a half out of them, maybe less. The sure seem like soft rubber compared to automobile tires. I think we pay too much for tires that are cheaply made by comparison.

[dan-in-tn]

My first year back as a member (2013) I towed a trailer everywhere I went. That’s how I Ended up with a couple of 100 engines! HA! HA! I always run the biggest tire (5.30 X 12") in this case. I only run Class C 6 ply tires. I’m running the same cheap tires you are. I buy tires & rims together for almost the same price as tires alone? I put 20,000 miles on the first year. I only run max pressure (calls for 80 lbs on side wall) so the tires run cool. The ride you get is due to your spring set up. I just replaced those tires this year due to dry rot/UV cracking. The trailer just sits outside at my house. One side doesn’t even have a fender. I have had the trailer for 40 yrs. She ain’t nothing to look at, but will haul 16 motors. Now that means I am hauling a load vs lighter boats which you guys are hauling most of the time.
My new boat rig has 4.80 X 12" tires. Hope I don’t regret that? Those tires also call for 80 lbs & are load C 6 ply. I drive 75 cruise control everywhere I can. Mostly interstate. Pot holes & all. I hope I don’t jinx myself, but in a million & one half miles with OMC & in the last 35 yrs I haven’t had a flat much less a blowout! With OMC I towed everything from a boat to a 36′ triaxle trailer of 33,000 lbs. I don’t go anywhere without max pressure in my tires. My new boat has independent suspension with an adjustable spring rate (like a shock). Once I get that dialed in I am hoping for more trouble free miles. That is just my experience, yours may differ.
My advice is do not let your air pressure down. Tires run hot, blow out, & adds to tire wear. Don’t run the 8" tires if you’re going to run over 50 mph.

Dan in TN

[crosbyman]

going on 13 years on my tires on an ez-loader trailer 15 inch I think….i would have to measure

anyhow… still going strong after about 5000 miles or so no cracks low UV damage since boat sits in a garage

bearings original (oil bath and no water intrusion…great system compared to my old style bearings that needed replacement almost every 2 years )

one clear plastic bearing cap cracked (my fault) and replaced with newer ez-loader aluminum body oil cap & clear window to see the oil level.

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

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