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Topic: Elto identification
An Elto twin just followed me home. Sigh. I know nothing about Elto’s. Tag on the tank indicates “Super Elto” it’s a twin. beyond that and a serial number, I’m at a loss. HELP! Serial number is 3180002. I’d love to find a year, model, parts, diagrams, anything to help with my next shop art project.
I think you will find the toggle switch controls the power to the ignition system. Thats how it should be at any rate.
You’re correct about the timing tho, the starting mechanism does retard it to start then allows it to advance once the starter lever is released. I haven’t worked on my electric Jr Quad very much so I got discombooberated there a bit, my bad. But what I was driving at previously is that once the motor is running, its not a lever to control the speed, thats what I was trying to get across.
At least with the top covers and shrouds removed, you can see the original round armature housing which is what you see on the outboards before Evinrude-Elto went to the “verandah” style starter housing, as Sam Vance referred to it. I’ve never had an Owen-Dyneto equipped motor that had a switch that set a “high” or “low” rate of charging. Charging was either on or it wasn’t, as it was always understood that it was an automatic cutout point that the electrical system controlled relative to engine RPM. At speeds above (approximately) 1000-1200 RPM, the charging system kicked in and was governed thereafter by the regulator circuit. My Super C electrics have a three position switch; One is RUN, the middle one is “CHARGE” and the third is “START”. They were also equipped with a key switch for turning the battery juice on and off. The switch on the later model electrics was a lil different, as you’ve found out.
Hope this helps.
Best,
PM T2He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
Yes your timer bushing needs replaced. The crack in the timer case should be repaired to keep it from growing. This early aluminum can be hard to weld. I used the aluminum brazing rod to repair one of mine. The stuff is a challenge to use (for me) but I’m getting better at it. I’m going to give you titles of some of my You Tube videos on how the timer works and rebuilding your coil. I can’t post links because too many will make this reply disappear. Search – Super Elto Timer – Adjustments – Function – Explanation. Search – Super Elto Timer – Its Working!!! – Search-Restoring Elto Ignition Coil – Quick Step Buy Step Repair Slide Show. This last video appeared after I posted mine. While he does use a different coil he basically copied what I spent several years to discover. It still may be of some value to you so search- Restoring ELTO Ignition Coils; Ruddertwin, Lightwin, Speedster, Quad, Service Twin, Super C.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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When starting any cold motor, normally a richer mixture is required. As it warms up the amount of fuel will need to be reduced to where the motor runs best. The only adjustment you mention is going richer, after the motor stopped running. A symptom of a Super Elto being flooded is the flywheel only bouncing back and forth, when trying to start one. When I am having a problem getting any motor started, I will close the mixture screw all the way and pull the motor over till it starts and cleans itself out. If after a dozen try’s, it doesn’t start, I assume it’s not getting enough fuel and open the mixture screw more. If its still not responding, I’ll take out the plugs to see if they are wet. If they are, I’ll spin the motor over 6 or 8 times, put the plugs back in, and with the mixture screw closed, start the motor, and let it clean itself out. If the plugs are dry, I’ll squirt in some fuel and try to get a motor to start. This is my approach to finding the correct fuel mixture for starting or running, although not always in this order. If there is no indication that a motor is trying to start, I would suspect there is some other issue. I doubt anyone has done a fuel to air ratio caparison on any of the pre WW-II motors, so how would one know that Super Eltos require a “richer” fuel to air ratio compared to any other motor?
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
1 user thanked author for this post.
That battery will be acceptable for any Super Elto and I suspect any pre. WW-II motor with a battery ignition, but it is just one of many options.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
1 user thanked author for this post.
The Square Tank, Flat Rudder, Elto’s seem to bring more than the later models, but my guess is it’s no more than $50.00 to $100.00. Originally the timer had a socket for the wiring to plug into. It often gets deleted and that has a major effect on the premium this model can bring. I have only had 1 Ruddertwin. Was a really nice motor but I never ran it as I’m more into the Speedsters and Folding Lightweights. As you have 2 you probably have a better sense of value than I do. However if it was one of the Super Eltos that I am interested in, I wouldn’t pay more than $250.00 for a good example. That’s just me. As you by more motors you’ll have a better sense of value “to you” of the motors you’re interested in. One thing I have learned is, I find it easier to except that I paid too much, than realizing I letting something I wanted, slip through my fingers, because I thought they were asking too much at the time.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
1 user thanked author for this post.
Topic: Super ELTO fuel needle
