Search Results for 'o rings for dual tank connector'

[crosbyman]

sorry  late reply no Hydro 3 days due to ice storm… sorry unable to provide info other than this search

Search Results for ‘o rings for dual tank connector’ – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc (aomci.org)

 

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[moxie-man]

At the last meet, I purchased a batch of dual fuel line connectors to practice rebuilding and to have on hand. I have Richards Aluminum rebuild fixture and pushed out the spring, valve, washer,and front brass retainer. I already have the McMaster Carr o rings from an old topic in the past. I have 7 to rebuild all needing different parts.

Water appears to have gotten into either the air or fuel side which has oxidized or rusted apart the springs. I want to replace with new springs but need at least 14 for these but would like more for the connectors on my current tanks. The outboard sites want $5 per spring if I remember correctly. Does anybody have A McMaster Carr less costly replacement spring PN that works. I would rather purchase 25 at $25 if possible to save money as well as have them on hand?

Am also looking for 3 or 4 reasonably priced brass retainers and 1 or two valves.

After removing the connectors inside parts and ultrasonic cleaning the connector housing in Pine Sol, I noticed that some of them have in the smaller middle spring cavity a roughness of pits or possibly hardened fuel mixture. Even after cleaning again. I assume it should smooth. I thought about gently scraping or lightly sanding (600 grit) the spring cavity. Is there a downside to doing this.

Also when I used Richards fixture on my other connectors ( retainer,washer, valve ) they pushed out with little or no effort and fell into the drilled cavity below with the connector looking evenly spaced on the fixture. These 7 connectors insides were hard to push out with multiple blows. I had to pivot / rotate the connector 1/8 inch to exactly align the retainer over the cavity so as not to be on the top aluminum surface Stopping removal. I then had to rotate as much on the other side of the connector for the other side.Has anybody had this alignment issue before? Did the connector casting tolerance vary that from suppliers OMC used?

Any feedback is appreciated.

[lindy46]

Here’s the pair:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OMC-375587-375788-DUAL-FUEL-TANK-CONNECTOR-MARINE-BOAT/312684670969?hash=item48cd756ff9:g:zeIAAOSwGbldHSXR&vxp=mtr
Plan on replacing the little o-rings.

[huntleybill]

I am restoring an Evinrude Cruise a day 6 gal fuel tank. I have replaced the o-rings in the connector, replaced the dual fuel line, replaced the gasket on the tank itself, and put in a new diaphragm. The original diaphragm had a hole for the plunger, the new one did not so I punched a hole in it. When I pump it up, I get no pressure build up. I removed the mechanism several time to make sure everything is in correctly. Best I can tell, everything is in correctly.

What I was wondering is, are the diaphragms with the hole in them different than the one without a hole? Are they interchangeable or not?
Or, could there be another reason why a tank would not develop pressure?

[aquasonic]

I am interested in finding specifications, or a link, to a replacement for OMC dual line pressure tank connector springs. As best as I can measure, they are approximately 1 5/16″ long by 1/4” diameter. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Improvise-Adapt-Overcome

[shane-r13]

Thanks for watching and the feedback.

Yah the cowling rattles in the back, Haven’t got around to that yet, still trying to make it run. I’m new to dual line pressure tanks. It primes up fine (i haven’t tried priming while running). When it dies and i prime the tank it is soft and i can prime it and see fuel flowing into the carb. This leads me to believe its something with the fuel system but as to being new on this style tank, I’m not sure where to look. Ive replaced the o-rings in the connector already and when i remove the tank cap it is pressurized and can hear the vapor escaping. I have also replaced at fuel and vacuum lines with new gear clamps on the fittings.

Shane

[Buccaneer]

I’ve been searching for sources to buy individual O-rings and expansion plugs
online, and found these sites. The later is for "carburetor sized" expansion plugs.
I ordered some O-rings for .06 cents a piece. Little 3/8" expansion plugs
that I was looking for that "others" wanted $6.95 for, they have for .97 cents
a piece if you buy 5 or more.
Of course, shipping cost inflates these prices, but if you buy enough at
a time, it brings down your cost per item pretty reasonable.

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/search. … rch=search
http://www.theoringstore.com/

I still haven’t learned of the size of the little o-rings in the OMC single
line tank assembly. May tear an old assembly apart and see if I can measure.

What size o-ring is in the single line connectors, and do they come apart
like the dual line connectors?
Thanks.

Prepare to be boarded!

[Steve D]

quote joesnuffy:

I do need some guidance on replacing the o-rings in the fuel connector. I would like to fix it next but since I only have one pressure tank I kinda don’t want to spend the money for the tool. If I can’t fix it I could mail it to someone that has the tool. I need to know what type and size o-rings I need?? and maybe a brief how-to do it. Thanks in advance.

Also does anyone know what that small hole is on the mid-section that is spitting out water? Is that a modification?

Thanks,
Joe

You’ll love that tool. Here is a brief how-to do it that Frank still has up on his website: http://www.franksoutboardtools.com/fuel … xture.html

As Richard says you’ll get a couple o-rings with it but here’s some info on those for future reference: OMC #301824 – don’t get the Sierra version, it looks like they’re still offering fat ones that don’t work well. McMaster Carr has them by the 100 bag and they work very well.

If you’re asking about the hole in the picture it’s the upper water tube grommet tab/ear hole. Grommet is worn/dried out and water is getting past it.

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[jerry-ahrens]

After you get the tank back together, you can pressure test it by using an air blow gun inserted into the ”air” line of the dual hose. Only give it a shot or two of air, (a couple pounds) then use some soapy water or Windex to check the tank top assembly for leaks.
There should be none. Don’t forget the fuel connector O-rings. They are also replaceable if need be.

[Mumbles]

The 107 O rings are for the dual line connectors found on the pressure tanks. Single hose connectors use a different size O ring. I’ll see if I have a pack of them to get the P/N off.