1923 elto rudder twin questions

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  • skier167

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 7
    Topics: 5
    #239154

    So I picked up a 1923 elto rudder twin off Facebook yesterday and have some questions. I am going to take it apart to clean(gas tank has some rust in it) and rebuild carb and coils. Looking for any advice as this will be my first pre40’s motor. Below is what I plan to do. I am all ears on advice or different approaches to cleaning this up and get her running again. Compression in both cylinders is 55 psi. Came out of a barn and last ran a little over 25 years ago according to previous owner.

    Disassemble and soak in evaprorust

    Clean rust out of inside of gas tank

    Tried to get spark last night with no luck so remove coil and rebuild via the YouTube video I found where you boil it. (Not sure what 3rd wire coming out of coil is for)

    Disassemble and clean carb

    Disassemble and clean gear case.

    • This topic was modified 2 weeks, 2 days ago by skier167.
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    mercuryman

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 449
    Topics: 162
    #239177

    Two wires go to + & – 6 volts you can hook either way and third wire to timer to points. I have a 27 model and the original coil and wiring works.


    cool-cat7


    Replies: 1
    Topics: 0
    #239229

    Hello, IAM a former member, been out of the loop for a while but make sure the points are set at between 8&10 thousands, their are what’s called Shouter points, like a camera they open and close very fast, had a few of these motors, had a solid rudder twin I think it was a 1923 ? It was ratty but ran great, good luck with your motor, Ralph.


    skier167

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 7
    Topics: 5
    #239387

    Thank you Ralph for the points setting. I’m working on cleaning the carb now and will be moving on to the points next.

    Hello, IAM a former member, been out of the loop for a while but make sure the points are set at between 8&10 thousands, their are what’s called Shouter points, like a camera they open and close very fast, had a few of these motors, had a solid rudder twin I think it was a 1923 ? It was ratty but ran great, good luck with your motor, Ralph.


    skier167

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 7
    Topics: 5
    #239389

    I tried to test the coil over the weekend and I can’t get an ohm reading on any of the wires so I think my coil is bad.

    Two wires go to + & – 6 volts you can hook either way and third wire to timer to points. I have a 27 model and the original coil and wiring works.


    wanderlustjake

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 34
    Topics: 11
    #239418

    Could you please share or give the title to the YouTube video? I am a newbie, boiling it got my curiosity going to watch it.

    Thank you,

    Jason


    Tom

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 479
    Topics: 46
    #239421

    Find the two leads that go to the timer and twist them together. Then take a reading across the two leads that go to the battery. You should get close to 0 ohms.

    Test across the two spark plug leads with the meter on the kohm scale, you should get a reading, probable something between 4 and 8 kohms.

    If either of these tests fails, the coil will need attention. And even if they do, there’s still a condenser in there that will need to be diagnosed.

    Let us know the results of these tests, maybe we can help a bit.

    T


    Shear Pin

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 6
    Topics: 0
    #239428

    Some You Tube Videos

    1 user thanked author for this post.

    wanderlustjake

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 34
    Topics: 11
    #239446

    Thank you!


    RICHARD A. WHITE

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1783
    Topics: 137
    #239450

    If the coil and condenser are bad there is another option… I have developed a 3D printed housing, with inserts and end caps that allow the use of an OMC condenser and one of the dual output military Bendix coil to make a new complete coil. They work well, and there is no longer a need to fill the housing with wax or any other substance. If you can get your coil disassembled with no damage, you are lucky. My end caps do not fit the original coil housings as I had to modify them to add material for wall strength.
    And the bonus.. Pretty much whatever color you desire…lol

    http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
    classicomctools@gmail.com


    skier167

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 7
    Topics: 5
    #239945

    Find the two leads that go to the timer and twist them together. Then take a reading across the two leads that go to the battery. You should get close to 0 ohms.

    Test across the two spark plug leads with the meter on the kohm scale, you should get a reading, probable something between 4 and 8 kohms.

    If either of these tests fails, the coil will need attention. And even if they do, there’s still a condenser in there that will need to be diagnosed.

    Let us know the results of these tests, maybe we can help a bit.

    T

    Thank you. I tested the leads as you instructed and I’m getting a reading from the 2 wires to the battery and 2 to the timer. Where it failed is when I tested between the two spark plug wires. I saw the boiling video and will be attempting in the near future.


    skier167

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 7
    Topics: 5
    #239946

    Thank you for the videos and tips. I will be rebuilding the coils. I’ve been working to break down the motor to clean and soak in the evaprorust. I found a few pinholes in the gas tank that will need to be soldered before rebuilding. Good thing is they are on the bottom and out of sight. The only two things that are still giving me issues are the screws that hold the connecting rod to the crankshaft and the the thrust bearing. After many attempts with penetrating oil and heat I’ve decided to leave them in place and move on. Cylinder walls of both pistons are smooth and no gouges.

    I’ve removed the cotter pin and pin that allows the thrust bearing to turn but can not get it to budge. It went into the evaprorust tonight for a good soak. Gear housing was pretty rusted and had a little water sitting in it.

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