Home Forum Ask A Member 1923 elto rudder twin questions

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  • #239154
    skier167
    Participant

      So I picked up a 1923 elto rudder twin off Facebook yesterday and have some questions. I am going to take it apart to clean(gas tank has some rust in it) and rebuild carb and coils. Looking for any advice as this will be my first pre40’s motor. Below is what I plan to do. I am all ears on advice or different approaches to cleaning this up and get her running again. Compression in both cylinders is 55 psi. Came out of a barn and last ran a little over 25 years ago according to previous owner.

      Disassemble and soak in evaprorust

      Clean rust out of inside of gas tank

      Tried to get spark last night with no luck so remove coil and rebuild via the YouTube video I found where you boil it. (Not sure what 3rd wire coming out of coil is for)

      Disassemble and clean carb

      Disassemble and clean gear case.

      • This topic was modified 2 years, 11 months ago by skier167.
      #239177
      mercuryman
      Participant

        Two wires go to + & – 6 volts you can hook either way and third wire to timer to points. I have a 27 model and the original coil and wiring works.

        #239229
        cool-cat7
        Participant

          Hello, IAM a former member, been out of the loop for a while but make sure the points are set at between 8&10 thousands, their are what’s called Shouter points, like a camera they open and close very fast, had a few of these motors, had a solid rudder twin I think it was a 1923 ? It was ratty but ran great, good luck with your motor, Ralph.

          #239387
          skier167
          Participant

            Thank you Ralph for the points setting. I’m working on cleaning the carb now and will be moving on to the points next.

            Hello, IAM a former member, been out of the loop for a while but make sure the points are set at between 8&10 thousands, their are what’s called Shouter points, like a camera they open and close very fast, had a few of these motors, had a solid rudder twin I think it was a 1923 ? It was ratty but ran great, good luck with your motor, Ralph.

            #239389
            skier167
            Participant

              I tried to test the coil over the weekend and I can’t get an ohm reading on any of the wires so I think my coil is bad.

              Two wires go to + & – 6 volts you can hook either way and third wire to timer to points. I have a 27 model and the original coil and wiring works.

              #239418
              wanderlustjake
              Participant

                Could you please share or give the title to the YouTube video? I am a newbie, boiling it got my curiosity going to watch it.

                Thank you,

                Jason

                #239421
                Tom
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Find the two leads that go to the timer and twist them together. Then take a reading across the two leads that go to the battery. You should get close to 0 ohms.

                  Test across the two spark plug leads with the meter on the kohm scale, you should get a reading, probable something between 4 and 8 kohms.

                  If either of these tests fails, the coil will need attention. And even if they do, there’s still a condenser in there that will need to be diagnosed.

                  Let us know the results of these tests, maybe we can help a bit.

                  T

                  #239428
                  Shear Pin
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    .

                    • This reply was modified 1 year, 12 months ago by Shear Pin.
                    1 user thanked author for this post.
                    #239446
                    wanderlustjake
                    Participant

                      Thank you!

                      #239450
                      RICHARD A. WHITE
                      Participant

                        Lifetime Member

                        If the coil and condenser are bad there is another option… I have developed a 3D printed housing, with inserts and end caps that allow the use of an OMC condenser and one of the dual output military Bendix coil to make a new complete coil. They work well, and there is no longer a need to fill the housing with wax or any other substance. If you can get your coil disassembled with no damage, you are lucky. My end caps do not fit the original coil housings as I had to modify them to add material for wall strength.
                        And the bonus.. Pretty much whatever color you desire…lol

                        http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
                        classicomctools@gmail.com

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