Home Forum Ask A Member 1923 elto rudder twin questions

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  • #239945
    skier167
    Participant

      Find the two leads that go to the timer and twist them together. Then take a reading across the two leads that go to the battery. You should get close to 0 ohms.

      Test across the two spark plug leads with the meter on the kohm scale, you should get a reading, probable something between 4 and 8 kohms.

      If either of these tests fails, the coil will need attention. And even if they do, there’s still a condenser in there that will need to be diagnosed.

      Let us know the results of these tests, maybe we can help a bit.

      T

      Thank you. I tested the leads as you instructed and I’m getting a reading from the 2 wires to the battery and 2 to the timer. Where it failed is when I tested between the two spark plug wires. I saw the boiling video and will be attempting in the near future.

      #239946
      skier167
      Participant

        Thank you for the videos and tips. I will be rebuilding the coils. I’ve been working to break down the motor to clean and soak in the evaprorust. I found a few pinholes in the gas tank that will need to be soldered before rebuilding. Good thing is they are on the bottom and out of sight. The only two things that are still giving me issues are the screws that hold the connecting rod to the crankshaft and the the thrust bearing. After many attempts with penetrating oil and heat I’ve decided to leave them in place and move on. Cylinder walls of both pistons are smooth and no gouges.

        I’ve removed the cotter pin and pin that allows the thrust bearing to turn but can not get it to budge. It went into the evaprorust tonight for a good soak. Gear housing was pretty rusted and had a little water sitting in it.

        #244203
        skier167
        Participant

          Update on the ruddertwin. She is allmost done. Just about ready to be started with the exception of an issue that came up with the pump housing. The tee broke off in the house and I tried everything to remove it including left turning bit. Not one of my finer moments but I decided to drill and retap. Ended up blowing out the side of the threads where the mounting screw hole is and now I’m either on the hunt for a replacement or come up with a way to repair this one. I was wondering if I used a brass tube to sleeve the hole, secure with a brazing rod and retapped the new hole would work? I’m also open to any other ideas.

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