George, thanks for the informational reply on the bearings.
I didn’t even know a person could purchase individual, oversized rollers.
I’ll have to do an Internet search for those, just in case.

My problem right now, is that I can’t even get the port head off to check out
the compression relief valves. It’s stuck on the studs and won’t budge after
several days of trying all kinds of magic.

I suppose, if I wanted to get into the crankcase, I could remove the cylinders
with the head attached, correct?
Thanks!

george-emmanuel wrote:

I’ve dealt with this before and it is aggravating to say the least. Yes, remove the cylinder/ head assembly and try a wood dowel from inside the bore to tap the head off. If you can get a little movement, then work it in and out going from one bore to the other. The problem is corrosion around the head studs has locked the heads in place. Usually whatever penetrating oil you use won’t get past the corrosion until you get a little movement. Heads are scarce, so take your time and work carefully.

George

Thanks George, I may yet try removing the cylinder with the head still attached.
The powerhead is still hanging from my engine crane via the head.
Brass punch and hammer on the studs did nothing, nor the air hammer
on the studs. The last two days I’ve ignored the powerhead while I worked
on other components, but did spray some more penetrating oil on the studs.

• This reply was modified 1 year, 6 months ago by Buccaneer.
• This reply was modified 1 year, 6 months ago by Buccaneer.

bobw wrote:

Buc – if you have some, you might also try soaking the head studs with Evaporust.   On my FD-12 project, I found that seemed to work better than penetrating oils in finally breaking loose the bad corrosion and wicking down into the threads on my broken exhaust cover screws.

I thought about trying other substances around the studs.
I wonder if it’s “rust” on the steel studs, or aluminum corrosion
cementing the head on, and what would be the best snake oil
for the later? Caustic?

Hopefully none of the harsh chemicals would make it’s way
into the cylinder before I got the head off.
I have some phosphoric acid, which I could try around the center
studs, as the head is counterbored there and any fluid can’t escape.
Thanks.

Mumbles, is it too late to become a chemist?
I have an ignition module for a 1990 Ford pickup
that I can’t install, because the aluminum base
distributer in the intake manifold is froze solid.
Need some magic for that as well!
I hired out snowplowing last winter because the
old truck will only start if it’s 30 deg F. or warmer!
Not of much use for much of the winter in MN!

• This reply was modified 1 year, 6 months ago by Buccaneer.

Maybe I better button it up and at least hear it run once before I get the torch out!
The stuck head just laughed at the little propane bottle torch.