Home Forum Ask A Member 1953 Johnson Seahorse 25 hp RD-15 not pumping water

Viewing 6 posts - 21 through 26 (of 26 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #197045
    KEVIN RINEHIMER
    Participant

      US Member - 2 Years

      Yup that’s the same case I have. I think you’re right about the grommet. There wasn’t one in there when I got the motor so it must have been lost and no one replaced it. I ordered one today and will hopefully have it Friday and test it out. New water pump parts are on the way with a new housing that has the anti cavitation plate on it which mine does not have.

      Do you think the grommet has to be flush with the lower unit or is there a gap between the water channel and grommet?

      #197046
      labrador-guy
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years

        The grommet is a couple inches up from the end of the water tube. If you follow that water tube to spot where it goes through the housing it needs to be sealed up. You might need to take the power head off to replace that puppy. Anyway it can’t leak there, you must do whatever it takes to seal it.

        dale

        #197987
        KEVIN RINEHIMER
        Participant

          US Member - 2 Years

          So I replaced the entire water pump. The grommet that was in place was all the way at the top of water tube at casing edge. I made sure it was seated all the way up but it still looked like it wasn’t really doing much. I used a fresh piece of thick rubber hose with braiding and cut it to correct size to sit at bottom edge of water tube and place an o ring around it as well to seal up space around the water tube. I filed the flat top of the lower unit and exhaust case and when I mocked them up before rebuild I noticed the edges near the water tube had a significant gap and allowed light to pass through. This may have been overlooked during last install. I used fast setting burgundy form a gasket around entire lower unit edge, carefully keeping sealant to a minimum and keeping out of water channels. This closed all the gaps and sealed the two pieces together very well so far. I marked the driveshaft so I would know if it was being pushed upward during install. I vented the gear case while inserting driveshaft then closed vent afterwards. Re assembled lower unit and service tank tested. Was a difficult startup as usual unfortunately and requires starter fluid. Once running, water pumped immediately now that all gaps and dead space was sealed. I upgraded the pump housing to the newer version with anti cavitation plate. The new impeller plate was much thicker gauge than the previous one that was bugered up. I used a new impeller as a precaution. I was so thrilled to see water pumping.

          Is there anything I can do to help motor start up without starter fluid? The shroud does not have an inlet for spraying starter fluid and is a pain to dismantle on the water. Would a carb rebuild help? I’m wondering if I’m flooding the motor while pressurizing the gas tank? How many times should I be pressing the pressure button in tank before start up? Once the motor is warm it will start right up. Rough low idle and no can’t seem to get high low mixtures to the point where I can idle her down real low to ideal shift idle. Compression is near 120 on both cylinders.

          As always thank you everyone for their insight! You all helped me get this thing going again!

          #197988
          Buccaneer
          Participant

            US Member

            Sounds like you should visit, or re-visit the carburetor and ignition for sure.
            When your pumping (priming) fuel to the carb, you should feel resistance
            in the primer when the float needle shuts and carb is full of fuel.

            Prepare to be boarded!

            #197993
            fleetwin
            Participant

              US Member - 2 Years

              Are you sure the choke is working correctly? You shouldn’t be able to flood the engine with the primer button if the carb is OK, unless you are priming it when tilted up. But, you speak of rough running and difficulties adjusting the carb effectively. Are you sure you have good spark on both cylinders? Have you had the flywheel off? I’m pretty sure there is an inspection plate over the flywheel that is easily removed so you can have a peak inside. Have a look at the coils, you will need an ignition overhaul if either of the coils is cracked or split.

              I may have misread one of your previous posts, but is seems like you may not have had enough water in your test tank. The water level should be above the joint where the gearcase mates to the exhaust housing in order to pump properly. Like Frank says, this water pump is a lousy air pump….

              #197996
              labrador-guy
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                Good to hear you now have water cooling things! Like Buck says carbs and ignition got to be right. It would help if the big horse did not pull so hard. Pump the button on the tank until it firms up. If it does not firm up you could have a problem in the tank also. 67 years old she will take some work to get’er right. I put new carb kits in mine. The new needle has a rubber tip. Sealed better than the solid tip one that it came with. Kit also had a little wire that opens the needle for fuel to flow. Original needle and seat tended to stick sometimes.

                have patience you will get it!

                dale

              Viewing 6 posts - 21 through 26 (of 26 total)
              • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.