Home Forum Ask A Member 1953 Mercury Mark 15 Troubleshooting

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  • #325058
    Buccaneer
    Participant

      US Member

      The first “boat run” a couple of days ago,
      on this Merc I went through last winter was
      mostly positive.
      The motor went “Lickety-Split”  all through
      the “wind up”, but did not want to idle.
      Then there was the disturbing rattle at times.

      https://youtu.be/b2Eta2CwJvA?si=3PgZaTajkszscNBA

      Yesterday, I removed the rewind and installed
      a Champion rope sheave. Happy to say the annoying
      rattle went away.

      DSCN5972

      As far as the idle, things went down-hill further.
      Now at lower rpms, before it dies, it’s dropping a cylinder.
      If you catch it in time before it dies, the cylinder picks up.
      I was all over the place on the low-speed adjustment, but
      couldn’t remedy the issue.

      I started digging into possibilities. I could have started with
      the easiest, and changed spark plugs, but what fun would that be.
      Ordered some plugs to replace the Champion J6’s.
      Correct plug shows as J7J back in the day.
      Ordered the modern replacement DJ7J, I think.
      Magneto off- Points clean, no obvious signs of issues.
      Hooked up the magneto to the Stevens tester. Both (OMC) coils
      are firing steady around 2 amps. No signs of arcing when probing
      with the tester.

      DSCN5976

      Tested the new top crankcase seal with motor oil, and there was “zero”
      bubbles while turning over the crankshaft.

      DSCN5977

      Carburetor now off, and that’s today’s mission to check the low speed
      circuit.

      DSCN5979

      Prepare to be boarded!

      #325076
      Buccaneer
      Participant

        US Member

        Went through the ignition and carb again today.
        I noticed that the throttle plate was a little wonky
        on the shaft, and not shutting tight in the bore
        between the two little low speed circuit fuel feeds.
        Some re-adjusting and a touch of loc-Tite seemed to
        improve the fit.

        DSCN5984

        I’m not sure I’ve seen a throttle plate / butterfly, that
        doesn’t go all the way to the bottom of the bore.
        Is this original on the AJ40A carb?

        Also noted that the low-speed jet tube didn’t have one
        of those little red fiber washers on it. I’m not sure if
        it’s supposed to on this carb, but I added one.

        DSCN5985

        The carb bore in the block isn’t round, and is slightly
        bigger that the round bore in the carb, which seems
        stupid to me, not to mention a quandary when making
        a new gasket!

        DSCN5986

        I put the magneto back on, and went to sync the points
        with my buzz box and a TDC dial indicator.
        The bottom cylinder set of points was not making good
        contact to “set off” my buzz box.
        I re-worked the points trying to get the two “point halves”
        to close squarely, but only slightly improved them.
        The were only making a tiny contact area, and slightly
        etched in that area.
        Will have to see if I can get some new ones.
        The points in it are REPCO brand, so I presume not original?

        The after-market OMC coils and condensers I used, had huge
        terminal ends on them, making a good connection to the point
        sets a challenge. I should have done this the first time, but I
        removed said terminals and soldered some dainty ones on.

        DSCN5991

        I only put back together necessities needed to make it actually run,
        in case it still won’t idle or keeps dropping a cylinder.
        I haven’t got around to looking at the rattle-trap rewind yet anyway.
        Hopefully tomorrow some time I can barrel test again to see
        if I made any improvements.

        Prepare to be boarded!

        #325251
        John Schubert
        Participant

          Lifetime Member

          One of the issues you mentioned was the throttle shaft ambling in the carb body. If it’s excessive, first check the shaft for wear & replace if necessary. If there is wear on the carb body, it may need to be replaced. The throttle disc or butterfly is designed that way so it will idle. Racers use full butterflies to shut down the motor when the remote throttle is released. The Crankcase is machined as it is as it was also used on MK 20s which use a card with the mating face oblong as well.

          one final thought. From personal experience if your OMC coils come from China they can cause ignition fluctuation as you are experiencing. You must use OEM or those made in Germany,

          #325266
          Buccaneer
          Participant

            US Member

            I have run it since the post. It did then idle and not drop a cylinder,
            but the magneto would drift too far retarded and the engine would
            die, unless I help onto the tiller grip.

            Since then, I determine there was a wee bit of slop in the mag plate,
            as it would rock slightly sideways. I made a .002 shim to add to the
            others, and the slop went away. Also, I re-found the twist grip
            tension screw on the bottom of the tiller elbow, so I’m hopeful
            the mag plate would drift anymore.

            I got different points today, so they are now installed. Hopefully
            another barrel test today.

            In my spare time, I’ve been working on tightening up the fit
            of the rewind pawls where they pivot. The rewind was rattling
            way too much for me. I ran a 7/16″ x 20 tap through the pivot
            holes, which raised the metal a little, making a slightly tighter
            fit. I then filled the threads in with JB Weld, then honed the holes
            out to a nice fit on the pins. Also, I ordered some “spring” washers
            to put under the pawls. “Hoping” it gets rid of the rattle for a while!

            DSCN6007

            Prepare to be boarded!

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