I just ordered a new rotor for my 53 Sea King 3 hp from Brian Wilcox. Is there anything else I should be looking for as far as parts go to change it out? I am hoping to save the gasket but not sure what else will be needed. I see that there is a grease seal involved so now I am wondering should there be grease in the lower unit or oil for the lower unit? Thanks for any info you can give me, Jim
Take out the grease plug (48) and put the grease in until it comes out the drain screw hole (46) in the gear case. Oil makes the water pump rotor swell reducing efficiency eventually to zero.
I’m working on a couple of these motors too. I love to hear the pop-pop-pop of them running. Jeff at Laignes has the prop shaft seals and gaskets. But the gasket is easy to make. The drive shaft seal is hard to get to. Doug Brook at vintage outboard found a couple for me on the ebay. Search part number 550749. But some say its not worth the trouble to replace, but I’m sure you’ve read the posts concerning this.
I’m racking my brain to remember things I’ve learned while working on mine. One thing stands out. If you are freaky about gas/oil getting all over your newly rebuilt beautiful little motor, like I used to be, then your gonna be upset. I can’t figure out a way to keep it clean. Gas loves to come out of the carb.
G
Mine is still in original condition. Shows its wear but runs good. It has new coils, ect. but paint is original. What grease is recommend for the lower unit?
Some of us (myself included) prefer Lubriplate 105, sold by NAPA Auto Parts stores. NAPA calls it “Motor Assembly Grease”, NAPA part number 765-2651. Advantage: It comes in a squeeze tube, perfect for the outboard fill plugs. Corn head grease comes in cartridges for a grease gun, so you need a grease gun and some sort of a nozzle to adapt to the fill plug.
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