Home › Forum › Ask A Member › SOLVED – 1957 RDE-19 seized
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Ghost_n_the_shell.
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July 11, 2026 at 1:10 pm #324264
Good day, folks. RDE-19 journey continues:
I have the pull cord shroud off, and I am trying to get the flywheel to turn.
I believe it’s seized.
I have:
1.) spark plugs removed
2.) engine tilted forward
3.) marvel mystery oil into cylinders. Bottom cylinder seems to have piston in the way, so I can only put a little oil in before it overflows. Once filled the overflow / brim some clear marvel oil drips out of open housing (I have the lower gear case removed already).
It appears to be dribbling out the housing very slowly. I wipe it – and it comes back. So it’s contant.
Does this mean blown rings?
Worth continuing?
Am I on the right track to let this soak for days on end, trying to rotate the flywheel every few days?
July 11, 2026 at 2:23 pm #324269Ghost don’t panic yet! That black oil is normal two cycle exhaust issue. If it were mine I would pull the head off and have a look/see. If it is rusty you can sand the cylinders with some fine sand paper. Scored walls are not good. The last one I had like yours I let it set soaking for a few days. Then I found a 2×2 board and a big hammer and tunked the top piston a few times then moved to the bottom one and did the same. If your motor is from salt water it might be history. You need to make sure the rings are free before your compression reading will mean something. Motors that have been setting for years sometimes loosen up and run pretty good. It takes patience and sweat and persistence!
dale
July 11, 2026 at 2:39 pm #324271Ghost don’t panic yet! That black oil is normal two cycle exhaust issue. If it were mine I would pull the head off and have a look/see. If it is rusty you can sand the cylinders with some fine sand paper. Scored walls are not good. The last one I had like yours I let it set soaking for a few days. Then I found a 2×2 board and a big hammer and tunked the top piston a few times then moved to the bottom one and did the same. If your motor is from salt water it might be history. You need to make sure the rings are free before your compression reading will mean something. Motors that have been setting for years sometimes loosen up and run pretty good. It takes patience and sweat and persistence!
dale
Thanks Dale!
its fresh water only. Georgian Bay!
The only real corrosion is two small spots under the shroud from some mouse piddle – but otherwise it looks great.I will see where I’m at in a few days of soaking and hit you up for your method if I’m unlucky!
cheers
July 12, 2026 at 10:06 am #324309my 9.5 was stuck took a week soaking and wacking gently on pistons..now a great runner !! do so with lu removed to confirm PH problem !!
patience patience and soak !!!
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
July 12, 2026 at 2:22 pm #324318OK, so the gearcase is currently removed? If not, I would remove the gearcase to ensure it is not the issue locking up the powerhead. Perhaps something has come loose under the flywheel jamming up the powerhead. Perhaps you can remove the little flywheel inspection cover and have a peek inside. Make sure the rewind interlock is not causing an issue was well, perhaps the compression relief linkage is jammed up.
If none of these things apply, then you will probably need to pull the cylinder head to see what is going on.
July 12, 2026 at 6:03 pm #324331OK, so the gearcase is currently removed? If not, I would remove the gearcase to ensure it is not the issue locking up the powerhead. Perhaps something has come loose under the flywheel jamming up the powerhead. Perhaps you can remove the little flywheel inspection cover and have a peek inside. Make sure the rewind interlock is not causing an issue was well, perhaps the compression relief linkage is jammed up.
If none of these things apply, then you will probably need to pull the cylinder head to see what is going on.
lower unit is currently removed and so far, looks in good shape.
I removed the recoil starter last night, cleaned it up, and all looks good there (still off).
I don’t see anything else touching the flywheel that would interfere with it. Motor is in “start” position, and gear is neutral.
I’m going to let is soak for a week, and if nothing, then, I’m going to open up the PH and try the tap method with a wooden dowel.
I’m a little caution though, as so far, most of my problems have been very easy / obvious to overcome, so I hope I’m just not overlooking something simple.
July 12, 2026 at 8:25 pm #324350The oil dripping out is likely coming from the piston that is down. If it has passed to ports the oil is running out through them. If the motor has been in dry storage there is every chance the the motor is just stuck from dried up gas and oil. If one piston is all the way at the top, and the other is all the way to the bottom, the wooden dowel trick isn’t going to work. if the connecting rod is straight under the piston it cant move. Still worth a try though. You’d have a better chance if both were near center.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
July 12, 2026 at 10:07 pm #324356The oil dripping out is likely coming from the piston that is down. If it has passed to ports the oil is running out through them. If the motor has been in dry storage there is every chance the the motor is just stuck from dried up gas and oil. If one piston is all the way at the top, and the other is all the way to the bottom, the wooden dowel trick isn’t going to work. if the connecting rod is straight under the piston it cant move. Still worth a try though. You’d have a better chance if both were near center.
I read that today. Doesn’t seem like the dowel trick will work because the bottom spark plug hole is covered by the piston. Only a small amount goes in before it just overflows.
And it’s my top spark plug hole that’s draining out whatever I pour in it, which definitely does not help with the whole soaking it method.
If I was a betting man, I’d say my soak won’t work. I’m giving it a week.
Any other ideas if the dowel trick won’t work based on the pistons position?
July 12, 2026 at 10:29 pm #324358You can try rocking the flywheel back and forth by hand to free it up. I have freed up stuck power heads by putting a socket and breaker bar on the flywheel nut and moving it back and forth but that can be a good way to break things if you really lay into it. Patience and gentle force is the key here. I’d start with rocking the flywheel by hand first.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1957 Evinrude 3022
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20
1982 Evinrude 25hp“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."July 13, 2026 at 6:58 am #324373
Because the oil is running out of the cylinder with the piston all the way down doesn’t mean the oil can’t be of some help. Just need to add a little bit each day. Even in the cylinder that’s holding oil, it the oil’s ability to creep that helps free the pistons. It would help if you could position the motor so the top of the pistons are point up so the oil flows around the top of the piston, and doesn’t have to climb up hill. I second Bob’s approach with moving the flywheel, and remember Labradors first suggestion. “Don’t panic”. Patience is required with this common problem. Give it few weeks. Can save a lot of time in the long run, and some money.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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