Home Forum Ask A Member 1962 Johnson 3hp Seahorse

Viewing 6 posts - 11 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #73630
    crosbyman
    Participant

      Canada Member - 2 Years

      see info on JW


      Attachments:

      Joining AOMCI has priviledges ๐Ÿ™‚

      #73642
      campcozyme
      Participant

        Thank you all for the information. We removed the head gasket which was stuck very hard to the head and stuck hard to the block. I wish I knew how to send a picture because I would. We peeked through the exhaust openings and the rings look to be in great shape. The cylinders also looked pristine with no grooves or wear. We are feeling good about that. Iโ€™m putting in an order tomorrow for a new gasket for the head and we are going to do the sanding trick you all sent (thank you). Any opinions on which gasket is better…… the OEM or the Sierra? And also the coils (we need new ones)……is the Sierra ones an upgrade from the OEM? Also any ideas on where is the best place to get complete set of decals? My husband is in Autobody and is going to paint it while we have it torn apart. Sorry for all the questions but itโ€™s been a lifesaver to get these answers so far, you are all so helpful. Ps…. I figured out how to add photo.


        Attachments:

        #73663
        crosbyman
        Participant

          Canada Member - 2 Years

          cracked coils… usually means good news since the motor likly did not function well if at all for years… I think you may have a real nice JW when all done

          http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.c … une-UP.htm

          http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_magneto.htm

          http://www.maxrules.com/fixtuneitup2.html

          2 of these should do fine

          https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Ignition-Co … 100623.m-1

          not oem but comments have been positive on the discussion of cheap coils .

          for gaskets stick to OEM (BRP) is the usual suggestion. cheap ones can tear under load

          btw why not change the plug wires (7mm) since you will be pulling the mag plate use only metallic plug wires no carbon stuff

          Joining AOMCI has priviledges ๐Ÿ™‚

          #73664
          joesnuffy
          Participant

            Make sure to put a new impeller in it before starting the old impeller that is in it now needs replacing. The impeller is the part that pumps water thru engine to keep it cool. I get most my parts from marineengine.com I buy OMC/BRP when available I only by sierra when I can’t get them. Here is a link to your motor parts using them.

            http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … odel=JW-17

            I have a 1952 3hp like yours it was my uncles he purchased new in 1952. He and his brother used it for duck hunting up in Maryland to build their Duck Blind. Here is a video of it running. I painted it because it had been run in brackish water its entire life and I paint most my older motors with the cammo skem even my boston whaler is with an orange bimini. This video is when my engine had points and condensers and the old plug wires still. It now runs with no points or condensers using 2 electronic modules I built myself using info that member debe came up with. I am currently working on a parts list with how-to pictures for the 2 cylinder 2 stroke OMC engine that I will post later this summer which should allow a person to build them for about 2 dollars per unit.

            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOs-fzbAezk

            Info on the modules and my testing can be read about here.

            viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1050&p=66786#p66786

            I hope that helps,

            Joe

            ps most likely a low hour engine since the coils are all cracked up which also tells you the impeller is also bad. Carb should also be gone thru carb kits should still be available or at least the parts you need. The new gas eats away at glue that was used on the original cork float in carb so new float in carb is a good idea also. I think mine has a cork float can’t remember off hand. New needle valve packing washers should also be put in carb both on the low speed needle and high speed needle that will help in fine-tuning motor. I would also use new condensers the old points most likley will clean up and can be better than new ones sold now in my humble opinion. New spark plug wire also helped my engine a lot I put it on later and it made a big difference. I see that marine engine sells it by the foot.

            #73666
            lindy46
            Participant

              US Member

              Here’s your decals, available at NYmarine:
              http://www.nymarine.ca/62JO3WEBPIC.gif

              #73696
              outbdnut2
              Participant

                US Member

                I’ve put a couple Sierra head gaskets in JWs, and they worked fine, and of course, the OEM ones will work great too. OEM is always preferred. Be sure to torque the head bolts properly to avoid warping the head. A manual I have specs the torque at 60 to 84 Inch-pounds. Always tighten the bolts near the center of the head first.
                Dave

              Viewing 6 posts - 11 through 16 (of 16 total)
              • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.