Home Forum Ask A Member 1988 Johnson 9.9 NO spark.

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  • #178120
    mark weaver
    Participant

      I am working on an 1988, 9.9 that has no fire. First I checked the ground on the power pack, cleaned it…no go. Then unhooked the kill switch…no go. Then I replaced the stator coil….no go. Then a new power pack…STILL no fire. Can it be the trigger sensor or what the heck is going on here? Any suggestions?? It just sat over the winter and now no fire.

      #178190
      frankr
      Participant

        US Member

        Internal break in one of the wires between stator plate and power pack?

        #178205
        mark weaver
        Participant

          Yes, that could be Frank. I took the stator plate off and checked where the wires go through the plate but no luck. There is a covering or plastic tube over the wiring…it is going to have to come off I guess. The ignition coils test good, the chances of BOTH going bad over the winter is next to nil anyway. I have replaced stator coil, power pack and plug wires AND cut the kill switch wire to the power pack and unhooked the kill switch ground wire. I can’t find any info on the trigger sensor…that is the only thing left in the stator. The magnet is STRONG so….never seen anything like it.

          #178207
          frankr
          Participant

            US Member

            Test sensor with a multimeter. Should show 15-20 Ohms—I think. Fact check me on that.

            #178208
            Mumbles
            Participant

              Before unnecessarily replacing expensive parts, a little bit of trouble shooting with an ohmmeter will help to narrow down what is wrong. I don’t have the specs in front of me at the moment but there are given values for the charge coil and sensor coil. I’ll dig around later and see if I can find them for you.

              Another suspicious place to check is inside the Amphenol connector(s) coming from the mag plate. The pins inside can get corroded or get pushed back inside the connector making for a no go situation.

              #178211
              mark weaver
              Participant

                Thanks for the replies. I can’t fact check the OHM values for the trigger sensor as I can’t find anything on it. It is an odd sensor on this 1988 and NO info on it, I have looked and looked. The stator coil is new so HOPEFULLY that is ruled out. I looked in the 5 pin plug for the new power pack and it looks fine….no corrosion. It ran in the fall and not in the spring so that would rule out any pin being out of place….it was never touched.

                #178216
                Mumbles
                Participant

                  I found this chart over at https://www.outboardignition.com/page40.asp and it gives the values of your mags components. The 583387 trigger (sensor) coil is a common one and it was used from 1980 – 2017 at least on 4.5 thru 60 horse motors.

                  Look inside your five pin connector and you will see a tiny letter next to each pin. Here’s where a magnifying glass or a loup comes in handy. To test the sensor coils resistance, you’ll have to probe the ‘B’ and ‘C’ terminals to get an ohm reading. Any reading from ‘C’ to ground indicates the coil or leads are shorted to ground and it will need repairs or replacing.

                  The ‘A’ and ‘D’ terminals are used for testing the charge coils resistance. Any reading from ‘A’ to ground indicates the coil or leads are shorted requiring repair or replacement but you’ve already done that.

                  There are other tests for the components and the power pack but they require specialised, as in expensive, equipment which we probably don’t have.

                  It will be interesting to check your old charge coil and if it falls in that 450 – 600 ohm range, you’ll at least have a good spare one. Strange, but the book I’m looking at says it should read 575 ohms +/- 75 while it should read 475 ohms +/- 75 for electric start models. Nope, I don’t know why either.

                  CD-II-Specs

                  #178220
                  mark weaver
                  Participant

                    Thank you for that info Mumbles. I will get on it today. I did test the stator coil and it is 565 so that is a good spare. I did NOT know about the pins being lettered so that is a BIG help. THIS is why PRE 1976 or so with good compression is more valuable to me than a new one.

                    #178233
                    mark weaver
                    Participant

                      So I tested the pin terminal today, when testing B and C terminals I get a reading of 15 to start and it goes all the way up to 55….one point at a time, then it drops back one point at a time to 25 then back up for a while then back down. You can’t get a steady reading….up and down and back up. I am no electrician but that don’t seem right to me.

                      #178239
                      fleetwin
                      Participant

                        US Member - 2 Years

                        Well, I may not be following everything correctly, but it would seem as though we are missing something here….First, when you did the stop switch elimination test, did you just disconnect the stop switch ground, or did you push the black stop lead out of the amphenol connector? Simply disconnecting the stop switch ground does not eliminate the switch from the circuit, you must push the stop switch lead out of the amphenol connector….You really need the ampenol tools to do this properly, please don’t just cut the leads.
                        OK, later I read you did actually cut the stop switch lead, but still not spark…You have replaced the powerpack and the charge coil which didn’t help, correct? Those amphenol connections can be a real bugger for sure. I guess I would push all the wires out of the connectors to make sure the leads aren’t broken, and the pins/sockets are located correctly. And, sure doesn’t seem likely that both coils are bad….Have you checked the sensor with an ohm meter and done the output tests with the peak reading voltmeter? How about the air gap of the two components? Are you sure you haven’t crossed one of the connections inadvertently?
                        Has the engine been overheated? Any signs of melted/pinched wiring?
                        Again, I fear we are missing something relatively simple here….Like you said, the engine ran OK last year, now no spark…The sensor is a simple winding that doesn’t fail usually, except if it is damaged physically by the flywheel…

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