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I started on my cheapie auction 4447 Evinrude this evening
that has the neutral shift knob sticking out on top. From the parts diagrams I’ve
found so far, it looks like something I’ve never worked on
before, having the neutral shift spring on the prop shaft.
I can’t find a Evinrude manual that covers any procedures
on this type of lower unit.
Can I drop the whole lower unit by undoing the shift
linkage under the power head some how?
This unit has the broken tiller and handle bracket, so
all that has to come of from under the power head some how!All I’ve determine about the unit so far is that it has "spark",
the coils look like new, and compression is 68 & 71 psi….
hopefully enough to be a decent runner?
Thanks for any sage advice!
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Do you have the parts book? Well, anyway here it is . . . 😀
On page seven, taking out the short 202699 and long 202610 exhaust outlet screw gives you access to the lower clutch rod lock wire 203040 (a small hair pin) so the lower unit will drop down when you take out the four 202699 pump body screws.
Things are progressing in taking the Fleetwin apart.
I removed the exhaust snout to access the "wire" or
clip that Garry mentioned to un-hook the shift rod.
Interesting enough, this clip was missing.
After I removed the four water pump housing bolts, etc.,
I still could not pull off the lower unit, as the big "crook"
in the shift rod would not pass thru the housing.
Made some guesses and got it un-hooked from the
top end by driving out a pin that holds the "primary shift lever",
which fits in a notch at the top of the shift rod.
Not sure how that stays engaged the way it’s made!
I got the broken "carry handle" removed from the power head,
so now it’s time to see if the unit with the good handle has
a power head with as good or better compression!
Have not taken apart the gear case yet. That’s going
to be interesting!
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This afternoon I tore into the Fleetwin 4443 "parts" motor with
the good carry handle bracket. This unit was missing cowls,
gas cap, & exhaust snout, but otherwise complete.
Turns out that it has somewhat better compression than
the complete 4447 I recently got at auction.
Externally, I don’t see much difference between the two,
except the 4443 gas tank has a hole in the rewind housing
and it’s labeled "Vent" (for the gas tank)
Not sure yet if the 4447 is an a "new and improved" power head
over the 4443, that had some internal changes for the best, i.e.,
better rods, etc?
Any insight on that welcomed.
Even though compression is better on one power head, I suppose
I should pull the intake and exhaust port covers to see about
any scoring of pistons or rings.
At least the 4443 had the wire clip that attaches the shift rod linkage
in the L.U.!
By the looks of the magneto, I think it’s been worked on before 😕
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Today I tore apart the gear case on the 4443 Fleetwin.
I had a bugger of a time getting the "Clutch Lever Support Collar"
removed. There was a snap ring in the gear case
ahead of it. There was an arrow on the collar that
said "Remove". I wasn’t sure "why" to rotate it at the time, as
I saw no threads. The piece kept binding up
and didn’t want to come out of the gear case.
I finally decided that were some slight burrs
in the gear case around the snap ring groove.
Once I finally got the collar out, I believe one is suppose
to "rotate" the collar a ways to disengage the
"Clutch Lever".
I don’t remember seeing the 207113 "Clutch Lever Spring".
Anyone know it’s function and where it hooks to?
I also don’t remember seeing the "Driveshaft retaining Ring",
part 301883.
I have a 4447 gear case, so hoping all the parts are in it,
so I can at least make one good one.
I’d love to know what the Evinrude service manual says
about these gear cases…… especially on how to put
them back together, lol.
Update –
I cleaned the parts up and took a few photos.
No idea yet how the clutch arm stays in place.
I’m sure if I had the missing spring that would help,
but I see nothing that the arm actually attaches to.
The clutch spring has no bent, or protruding ends
for the arm to grab to. It may be broke off, but
then again, the parts diagram doesn’t show any either.
Hoping I can get the other gear case apart and see
how the clutch arm is positioned. First one didn’t
go so well.Update Update-
Just found this on YouTube, showing how the clutch spring
engages the spring.
https://youtu.be/DGJUuq-GJdY
Captured a photo from the video. Hopefully my
other gear case has the missing clip.
Same guy has another short video showing more
on how the neutral clutch works.
https://youtu.be/PRYPpAb2vvw
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The end of the 202659 clutch drive spring must have a bent up end. Put the spring on the edge of a vice and hitting it with a hammer to straighten the last 3/16" should do it, The spring may break if a lever locking pliers is used. The 203117 spring clip is what holds the 203116 clutch lever in place. Both motors should be the same. Only the first year was the odd ball. . . 😀 . 1950
I went out and bought all kinds of springs until i realized i had the right part all along. The "spring" just holds the clutch in place.
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