Home › Forum › Ask A Member › ’53 Erude 3hp parts questions
- This topic has 8 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 1 year, 11 months ago by cron78.
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May 17, 2022 at 9:22 pm #259999
Pulled the lower unit to check the impeller and it is almost new. The seller said that it had been taken care of and fogged when he bought it a couple years ago, so I might just let the impeller ride until I get the motor running. BRP is proud of their parts and I don’t like using Sierra.
Question: The drive shaft didn’t have the little o-ring at the top when I pulled it. Might the o-ring still be up inside or should it have stayed on the shaft? Is that o-ring needed? Parts list says it is #0202893. Can anyone suggest a good off the shelf from the hardware store substitute? I will drive right by a mom & pop HW store tomorrow and it is closer than cheaper than the Johnson parts store for a BRP part.
Thanks,
Cron
May 17, 2022 at 10:06 pm #260004…And next question: I checked the rubber clutch on the prop after last night’s question about the shear pin. The small area of exposed rubber at the back of the prop that I think is the clutch ring bushing is hard as a rock. The larger diameter area of exposed clutch ring rubber at the front seems as soft as a marshmallow. Is the rubber clutch part supposed to be extremely soft?
BTW, the prop is a 3-blade that seems a bit smaller than 6″ diameter and the 1952-’54 parts manual shows a two blade (6 1/8″). I don’t see a part number on the prop; it is quite worn. Any issues with running the 3-blade if it is a bit undersized?
Thanks,
Cron
May 18, 2022 at 12:57 am #260007Hi Cron. Regarding the O ring missing on the drive shaft, it is most important that you have put in a replacement!!!!
It stops water getting in and ruining the crankshaft spline. I have a 1964 3hp Johnson that had a ruined crankshaft spline, all because someone failed to make sure one was installed
during servicing!
Make sure too, that the drive shaft spline is well greased when reassembling. As for remnants of an O ring being still up on the crankshaft spline, I think that would be fairly remote.
Shine a torch up and may be use a piece of wire to check.
I got a replacement from my local auto supply store for just a few cents…….,..take the drive shaft with you to get one that fits well.Hope this helps.
Monte NZMay 18, 2022 at 8:53 am #260013
This is the result of a missing O ring. I know
the history of this motor since new. After 50
some years of regular use a lower unit seal
was leaking. Found this when disassembling
for repair. Most likely the O ring dried out
and disintegrate decades earlier. If your reading
this, and you have any of these, and you have
never checked for this O ring, you should.
Tubs.May 18, 2022 at 10:32 am #260018And here’s a crankshaft where the driveshaft O-ring was missing.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."May 18, 2022 at 9:13 pm #260038Thanks Monte, Tubs and BobW. The new o-ring is installed. I broke down and got a couple BRP o-rings instead of guessing what I needed. Now I have an OEM to use to find future correctly sized o-rings.
Question for today: Had to put in a new pull cord, which seemed to work but when checking for spark something in the recoil let loose. I’ve never opened one before, but I was hoping to get this motor running for this weekend. The attached pic is what it looks like now. The inside catch loop (for lack of correct terminology) had to be bent into this position. The part of the coil spring at the serial # was actually bent to the other side of the starter pulley center and the catch loop was pointing in the other direction. BTW, it wasn’t quite that clean when I opened it up. Do I continue to bend it tighter to the center to get it to line back up with the starter pulley pin on the spinning part? I am assuming that it should look like the second pic attached from a YouTube vid. I can’t think of how else to get it to align with the starter pin but I don’t want to bend it too much.
Thanks, for any hints.
Cron
- This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by cron78. Reason: to remove duplicate
May 18, 2022 at 9:40 pm #260055Thanks Monte, Tubs and BobW. The o-ring is installed. I broke down and got a couple BRP o-rings so I have an OEM part now to use to find future o-rings that fit.
Today’s question: I had to replace the pull cord and it seemed to work fine, except when testing for spark today something in the recoil let loose. I have never opened up a recoil before and when I got it apart the spring wasn’t completely coiled where it was supposed to be. The attached pic shows what it looks like now that I bent the spring back to only coil in one direction. When I opened it up the part of the spring at the serial # in the attached pic was actually bent on the other side of the center and the catch loop (for lack of a better term) was pointing in the opposite direction. I bent it back to coil in the concentric direction but I didn’t want to keep bending if I was doing something wrong. I am guessing that I need to carefully bend it a bit more to get the catch loop closer to the center so that the pin on the starter pulley will catch the loop when I reassemble. Assuming it needs to look like the one n the attached YouTube pic. Is that correct?
Any hints will be appreciated.
Cron
Hopefully this isn’t a repost…I lost my first attempt somehow.
May 19, 2022 at 12:39 am #260064had the same problem and managed to bend it back like new… should work afterwards . Mind you a new one is not that expensive and available .
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
May 19, 2022 at 8:45 am #26007610-4. thx.
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