‘56 Wizard super 10

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  • Geer Pyron

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 134
    Topics: 41
    #253431

    I can’t seem to be able to take the guts out of the gear case of a ‘56 Wizard super 10. Is the the water pump housing threaded into the gear case? There are two threaded holes in it like on later OMC bearing carriers that get pulled out. Thought I’d ask before I go yanking on it and mess something up.
    Thank you,
    G

    JMGP


    dave-bernard

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1773
    Topics: 27
    #253432

    If it is a mercury wizard then the guts pull out after the pump cover is removed.


    The Boat House


    Replies: 3795
    Topics: 95
    #253438



    If it looks like this, this is how I get the cartage out.
    Tubs


    dave-bernard

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1773
    Topics: 27
    #253441

    Yep Mercury


    Geer Pyron

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 134
    Topics: 41
    #253521

    Yep. Mercury.
    Thank you both for the input.
    I’m gonna tank it out tonight.
    Oooo, I forgot something else! When removing the gear case, how does one pull the water tube out of the it? And, if I have to cut it….Can I make a new one easily enough?
    G

     

     

    JMGP


    dave-bernard

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1773
    Topics: 27
    #253524

    just slides out IF NOT FROZEN. Yes you can make a new one.


    billw

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1697
    Topics: 53
    #253532

    I’ve never seen a water tube that’s NOT frozen. Let us know if your luck is better than mine! Unless you want to try and replace the drive shaft seal, (which, admittedly, WILL be bad) there is really no reason to remove the gear housing from the leg and go down THAT rabbit hole.

    Long live American manufacturing!

    • This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by billw.

    crosbyman

    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 2717
    Topics: 269
    #253537

    Boat house….. dang !   now I have to clean up my shop in case wife sees yours….:-(

    looks great

    Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂


    The Boat House


    Replies: 3795
    Topics: 95
    #253540



    A attempt to eliminate the “here one minute and
    gone the next”. Has greatly reduced the places
    things can hide but still hasn’t totally solved the
    issue.
    Tubs


    Geer Pyron

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 134
    Topics: 41
    #253609

    Yes, I wanted to replace that drive shaft seal. As is my MO, I like to re-do everything that is within my realm of re-doability. But, with the difficulty of removing the water pump and water tube, I’ve adjusted.
    I’ll run it as is for now. Well not exactly. I’ve installed a different reed cage or reed block, One with 8 petals as opposed to four and will be putting a lager carb on it. Just to see if i can get a little more out of it.
    Oooo, as I write I remember things.
    The prop, which I had worked on and made good again, wobbles on the prop shaft. The inside diameter is slightly larger that the OD of the shaft. I can get the wobble out when I tighten the prop nut, but….I don’t like that initial wobble. Is it a cause for concern? And something else I want to add. I found that a prop shaft seal from a late ‘70s OMC 35 hp fits as an upper crankshaft seal on this motor. It surprised me. But I’m happy because I have lots of them.
    G

    JMGP


    dave-bernard

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1773
    Topics: 27
    #253615

    Use John Deer cornhead grease in the lower. make a shim for the prop shaft and prop.

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