Home Forum Ask A Member ’77 OMC 9.9hp hard start warm

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  • #238746
    jerryswiss
    Participant

      This is a 1977 Johnson 9.9hp, starts good cold, runs good, pumps plenty of water, but if you shut it off after running awhile, it won’t start until it cools down. Any ideas? Some one suggested leaking crank seal, is that possible?

      #238756
      billw
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years

        I think there was another thread on this same issue ,with the same motor type, within a year or two ago. I can’t remember if it had a solution or what it was. One of those should fire off pretty much in half a revolution, like many OMC products, when it’s warm. I would suspect a charge coil or power pack getting hot, but it’s easy to speculate from here. If it were mine, I would take a baseline spark and compression test while cold, then operate the engine until the condition happens and re-check. Maybe also check the fuel tank vent…If the tank built pressure AND the float valve leaked by a little, it could flood sitting still. You don’t have one of those newer, stupid, one-way vented EPA tanks, do you? The ones that blow up like a wood tick, in the sun?

        Long live American manufacturing!

        • This reply was modified 2 years, 11 months ago by billw.
        • This reply was modified 2 years, 11 months ago by billw.
        #238834
        fleetwin
        Participant

          US Member - 2 Years

          Yeah, kinda seems like you might be losing spark as the engine heats up…But, does the engine continue to run fine when hot? Kinda sounds like the engine runs fine until you shut it off, which makes a spark issue a little less likely. So, like Bill says, it is best to check spark when it is hot and won’t restart…Could be something as simple as a bad ground, or funky stop switch. But, you really need to confirm whether or not this is a spark issue before digging into the ignition system.
          What happens if you shut the engine down, then restart it immediately, does it start up OK then? Keep, in mind that you may need to use the choke when restarting a hot engine that has sat for a bit…Seems counter intuitive, but today’s fuels tend to vaporize easily, especially in hot climates. Are you trying to restart at idle speed, or are you turning the throttle up to “start”? Keep in mind that the neutral lock out RPM is adjustable on those older models. There is a stop held in place on the shift detent that can be moved forward/back a bit to raise/lower max RPM in neutral, perhaps you need to advance the throttle more when trying to restart hot…

          #238841
          jerryswiss
          Participant

            Thanks for the good advice, I will do some checking on the spark when it is hot. I have not had this motor long. The previous owner just said it was hard to start hot. The one time I ran it on a boat that was my experience also.

            #238842
            fleetwin
            Participant

              US Member - 2 Years

              There are other possibilities also, suppose the carb could be flooding over…But, it wouldn’t run/idle very well if that was the case… One other thing to consider, how is the recoil rope, is it too short? Is the recoil engaging OK? That recoil is geared down quite a bit, so it takes a good yank to get the flywheel rotating fast enough…If the rope is too short, you won’t get the flywheel rotating very well, even though it seems like you have pulled the rope out far enough… Don’t get me wrong, I am not advising you to yank the rope out real far, and please don’t let go of it letting it snap back, or the spring will probably be damaged.

              #238846
              rudderless
              Participant

                My 76′ is just like yours. Got mine all apart in a box and did not have any of the safety interlocs with it. On a hot restart 1/2 throttle no choke…I have a primer button though..so no primer either. On a cool restart 1/2 throttle with some choke or primer squirt. If I use choke or primer too soon after a hot stop its 1/2 throttle, ten pulls or more or more to clear it.

                With the throttle limiter it is a pain to clear a flood without waiting until cool enough or its 20 pulls or more.

                I would suggest a fix but there is a possible safety issue with that fix.

                #238850
                fleetwin
                Participant

                  US Member - 2 Years

                  Keep in mind that the neutral throttle limiting “lock out” is adjustable on those early models…There is an adjustable throttle stop on the shift linkage, it is slotted and can be moved by loosening two small screws….
                  Funny this topic appears now…I noticed this same symptom on the 81 9.9hp that I just revived while at the AOMCI meet this weekend… The engine would start right up hot after sitting for a few minutes with no choke…After I let it sit for more than a half hour, I usually choked it, would start but immediately stall…Took a few pulls with no choke to get it going….I should have tried it with no choke first I guess…

                  #239660
                  jerryswiss
                  Participant

                    Ok, this is what I have learned. I got it to run in a tank and can start it consistently when warm. It has spark when warm, and will start, but has a somewhat inconsistent idle and is somewhat hard to start. If you pump the primer bulb on the fuel line it makes it start easier and idle smoother. Carb is clean, fuel pump rebuilt, tank vent is ok. I think there is an air leak somewhere.

                    What do you think? Where would the common place for an air leak be?

                    #239664
                    fleetwin
                    Participant

                      US Member - 2 Years

                      Ok, this is what I have learned. I got it to run in a tank and can start it consistently when warm. It has spark when warm, and will start, but has a somewhat inconsistent idle and is somewhat hard to start. If you pump the primer bulb on the fuel line it makes it start easier and idle smoother. Carb is clean, fuel pump rebuilt, tank vent is ok. I think there is an air leak somewhere.

                      What do you think? Where would the common place for an air leak be?

                      Well, I don’t really think there is an air leak…Especially if the engine’s running/idling quality is good….Did you advance the neutral lock out stop link? I don’t think I really understand what you are describing.
                      You say you can start it consistently when warm….But has inconsistent idle, then you say it is somewhat hard to start….
                      Are you saying it is hard to start when hot, or that it runs poorly after being restarted when hot?
                      Did you advance the neutral lock out?
                      Perhaps you can post a video of the issue you are having.

                      #239677
                      jerryswiss
                      Participant

                        I probably am not describing myself very well. I did advance the neutral lock out, I think that helped some, I can at least get it started consistently now. It still has an inconsistent idle. If I pump the fuel line primer bulb it will both start easier and run smoother at low speeds. Why does the primer bulb have this effect?

                        Before what I thought was a hard start when warm, was actually the effect of being easy to start and idling smoothly from the initial priming of the fuel pump and carb and then hard to start when not using the primer a second time. In the past if I had squeezed the primer bulb, after stopping the motor it would probably would have started. So my question is why does priming a second time make it start easier and run smoother?

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