Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 9122R 9.5hp dead….
- This topic has 18 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 4 months ago by garry-in-michigan.
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December 23, 2018 at 7:59 am #161057
thanks for feed back…
a- points/condensers/wires were not replaced, correct? all true ..to be investigated further
b- yep…disconnected
c- I am guessing that this engine is new to you ? and you have never had it running …correct
d- did you check for spark before going through the ignition?…no…..currently using an adjustable spread spark tester
e- are you spinning the flywheel the wrong way with the drill?… yep clockwise looking down
f- does not seem likely that you have two bad sets of points/condensers/wires…. will be investigated further
g- The flywheels for the 6 and 9.5s sure “look the same”perhaps someone put a 6hp flywheel on this engine???
OMG !!! I have been working in parallel on 2 other engines…. a 5.5 golden jubile (1959) and another 9.5 (9R71) and this possibility has ben haunting me… 🙁 !!!!
when I installed the FW I noticed the 2 timing marks on the edge of the FW had not really lined up with the previous position of my FR/RW timing tool….. maybe I did swap FW !!! as I reassembled the engines.
will check this asap but Christmas duties are interfering with my hobby 🙂 Wife needs me close by for misc chores.
thanks for the reminder …..I feel a fat crow looking down on me and the shotgun is loaded 🙂
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
- This reply was modified 5 years, 4 months ago by crosbyman.
December 23, 2018 at 9:46 am #161072The same timing fixture tool works on all OMC motors 5hp thru 22 cu in 25hp, as long as they have the Universal Magneto. From that, we can infer that any of the flywheels from any of those motors will work ignition-wise. Of course they won’t all physically fit, but if they would, they would produce a spark. Taper, keyway position, magnets position, ect are all the same.
December 23, 2018 at 10:31 am #161078Crosbyman,
I sent the manual and other information to your email. You will get a download link from www. wetransfer.com It is safe free site to see large files. I use it all the time. Look in your email from the (wetransfer.com website)
Cheers,
cajuncook1
December 23, 2018 at 5:29 pm #161107OK, back to simple things….Never trust test equipment….
Are you sure your spark tester is good?
Have you tried cranking with the plugs grounded to the block??December 23, 2018 at 11:40 pm #161132I used that tester before …..but will try the good old screwdriver method in the booth plug tomorrow a.m.
also have a set of double alligators to ground clips I can use over the plugs
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
- This reply was modified 5 years, 4 months ago by crosbyman.
December 24, 2018 at 10:34 am #161178Fleetwin…..and all ………….. Making progress 🙂
well I used my fat alligators clips to ground the 2 plugs and….. SPARKS on one plug … the top plug 🙂will continue testing but the promised land is in sight !
Cajuncook1……. The maintenance book says to never polish the points…. just clean them with acetone or carb cleaner
anyhow…I have polished & cleaned points before on oldies ……. maybe the 9.5’s are picky ???
in any event I’ll rework points & condensers to get me some sparks on the bottom plug
conclusion … looks very well like my trusted (spread gap) spark tester can’t be trusted so much
Fleetwin … wins the quiz……having opened the door to happiness 🙂 thanks to all for your guidance .. the crow can wait for now
Final outcome will be written up when both plugs are firing hot sparks
patience does bring joy….
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
- This reply was modified 5 years, 4 months ago by crosbyman.
December 24, 2018 at 3:37 pm #161205Reached success….
autopsy results
– initial spark tester (cheapy from Amazon… see pict.) caused most of the grief it seems The clip wire had continuity to the frame yet measurements on the adjustable tip gave all sorts of results from 0 ohms to the clip or anything in between into the Meg ohms mostly due to what appears to be loosy goosy threads on the adjustable post ….causing poor grounding . I switched testing to my by alligator clips for secure grounding of the plugs
– I recleaned… again the both sets of points and swiped in some acetone to remove any residue
– I replaced one capacitor (frayed a bit entering the casing) on the bottom plug circuit although I can’t say if it was the capacitor or just recleaning the points that did it…
gap tested my sparks from both circuits with a plug having no side electrode (home made surface plug for now by clipping the side electrode)
end result … strong sparks with tools I have in hand for now… I will be getting myself a better quality gap tester 🙁
thanks to all who chipped in …. turkey tomorrow !
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
December 25, 2018 at 1:17 pm #161246Thank you crosbyman….
Your experience is a good reminder for all of us, we tend to put too much confidence in our test equipment…. Common sense is the best tool in our kit, and it should not be ignored….
Glad it is sparking again…..December 25, 2018 at 4:31 pm #161249Corrosion or a loose connection just adds to the resistance, as does higher compression. A 10 to 1 compression ratio has twice the resistance with a 0.030″ spark plug gap as a 5 to 1 ratio does. Retarding the spark for slower speed reduces pressure at the time of ignition and helps overcome the reduced output of the magneto at lower speed.
On polishing points – Whiteness of paper is enhanced by adding titanium dioxide to the mix which is an insolater. So do not use white business cards the polish points, regular cardboard works best. Steve Woods uses WD-40 with excellent results.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 4 months ago by garry-in-michigan.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 4 months ago by garry-in-michigan.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 4 months ago by garry-in-michigan.
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