!958 Johnson Serial Number Plate Issue

This topic has 8 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 4 months ago by drifter.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

Author

Posts
November 29, 2021 at 10:01 am #250403
drifter
Participant
Here in Texas, outboards are required to have titles. The serial number tag dictates the motor title.
My 58 Johnson CD (which has a title) has a broken transom mount and I have a replacement, but I now must transfer the tag from the broken mount to the replacement mount.
What is the easiest, safest, way to remove the tag and replace it?
Can the rivets be driven out from the back? Should I just carefully shear off the tops of the current rivets and drill out the holes and use pop rivets to fix the tag onto the replacement part?
I’m hoping I can use a long drift to drive the rivets out from the back and reuse the stock rivets to keep the motor looking as stock as possible.

Thanks for the help.
Drifter
November 29, 2021 at 10:13 am #250404
bobw
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
You can drive the pins out from the back side with a small punch. I had the same issue with a broken transom mount on my CD a few years ago. If you are careful in driving the pin out slowly so it doesn’t fly across the shop floor, you can re-use them on the new bracket.

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."
November 29, 2021 at 10:19 am #250405
aquasonic
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
Best to remove the bracket and lay it down on your bench. This allows a square approach with a 3/32 pin punch to the back of the rivet.
November 29, 2021 at 12:45 pm #250417
Mumbles
Participant
Placing the bracket on a folded towel or something similar will help prevent the drive rivets from flying away when they come out. The rivets can become corroded to the ID plate so I like to drive them out alternately, a little bit at a time so they don’t damage or bend the plate. A short punch will give more control than a long punch, which might bend.

This photo shows the style of rivets used but the ones in your motor will be shorter.
November 29, 2021 at 5:58 pm #250457
drifter
Participant
Thanks for the help. The rivets came out fine and I replaced the plate onto the replacement part. Yes, Mumbles, that little rivet took off and luckily, I found it.
November 29, 2021 at 6:36 pm #250459
foot_doctor
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
Those little burgers are commonly called Drive Screws.

R.T.
November 29, 2021 at 6:37 pm #250460
foot_doctor
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
Whoops, I meant Buggers!

R.T.
November 30, 2021 at 11:03 pm #250515
outbdnut2
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
The serial number is also on the welch plug on the engine block – maybe that’s all you need?
Dave
December 1, 2021 at 7:35 am #250520
drifter
Participant
The welch plug is missing. Not an issue because the plate was installed. Thanks, Nick
Author

Posts

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

GET IN TOUCH