Home Forum Ask A Member Advice for cutting a flywheel off

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  • #84438
    outbdnut2
    Participant

      US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

      Like Chris said – try an air impact wrench on the center bolt on the puller. That has worked wonders for me with the OMC puller, and you usually don’t have to hold the flywheel to keep it from turning.
      Dave

      #84443
      PugetSoundBoater
      Participant

        The response on using a lead hammer is a good approach in some applications,better yet IMHO would be a dead blow hammer, plastic hollow head filled with lead pellets.
        Would that qualify as heavy and solid?

        "Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
        Robbie Robertson

        #84446
        wetwillie
        Participant

          One other detail I forgot to mention : I snapped one of the puller bolts off just below the surface of the flywheel (Insert crying or devil emoticon here) so keeping it under tension using the puller is no longer an option. Also, I just remembered that I did try the melted wax idea. THAT explains the small box of birthday candles resting on a shelf in my shop. Finally, David, I should have mentioned that I tried a sledgehammer in addition to the lead hammer.
          On an aside, I really do appreciate all the responses to my post and am surprised at how quickly they were posted.
          Now, anyone have an idea on the best way to cut it off?

          #84455
          garry-in-michigan
          Participant

            Lifetime Member

            You may be able the remove the broken puller bolt with a left handed drill bit – Because of previous models numerous hub failures, that model has an extensive steel hub. It will require numerous passes with a large high speed cut off grinder to get to the point where a Dremel cut off wheel can be used to cut a slot at the key way to release what is left of the hub without damage to the crankshaft or magneto. . . 😕

            #84458
            wetwillie
            Participant

              Thanks Garry. As much as I didn’t want to learn that, that is extremely helpful. Looks like I’ll be trying to EZ Out, or left drill that broken bolt and go back to heating, soaking, pulling and pounding. 🙁

              #84459
              green-thumbs
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                Heavier…Silver, Gold, Platinum, Tungsten ? As many hammers as I have collected, none made of that stuff have come my way. Seriously, a lead hammer is a good tool for the purpose as lead will deform and hopefully not mushroom end of crankshaft.

                4 brass hammers, several weights of ball peen hammers, half a dozen leather mallets, 2 rubber mallets, 12 and 20 oz claw hammers and 2 lead hammers.large and small.
                All garage sale tools.
                Usually takes more time to track down the right tool than it takes to use it. If I replace tool
                where it belongs it will take me no more time to find it next time than it did this time.
                Louis

                PS I used heat and wax on a real toughie KF7 flywheel…it slipped right off despite chewed up
                key…a very old technique rediscovered again.
                Louis …

                #84465
                wetwillie
                Participant

                  "a lead hammer is a good tool for the purpose as lead will deform and hopefully not mushroom end of crankshaft." is exactly why I reached for the ol lead hammer. Same one that I made in metal shop back in ’69 as a matter of fact. After this many yrs, its debatable which looks better, me or the hammer.
                  Anyway, thanks to a couple of left hand drill bits that I bought at Harbor Fr8 today, I was able to extract the broken bolt. The flywheel is back under tension and has a puddle of Kroil in the recessed area. We’ll see if anything happens.

                  #84466
                  jerry-ahrens
                  Participant

                    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

                    I believe if you were using an OMC factory flywheel puller, along with an air impact wrench, you would have it off. Harmonic balancer pullers and most cheap (no offense) pullers will flex under load. You need a puller with zero flexing. The puller bolts used with the OMC puller have a shoulder on them that tightens down against the surface of the flywheel. The puller disc itself is very thick, probably 2 1/2 times as much as a harmonic balancer puller. The other secret to this puller combo is the hardened thick washers that go under each of the three puller screws… they are 4 times as thick, and will not flex under load. I never use a wrench or socket with the OMC puller kit, only my 1/2 inch impact. You do need to pay attention when you zap it with the impact. Watch the tree puller screws to make sure they arent pulling out. This usually only happens with the flywheels with 1/4 20 pitch holes. This kit is the best money you will ever spend on a flywheel puller, and it lasts a lifetime. http://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/1632 … sIEALw_wcB

                    #84472
                    2fast4me
                    Participant

                      Jerry thanks for the link. I’m tired of working with my old harmonic balancer puller although it hasn’t failed me yet. Crowley marine has one on the way to me.
                      Jim

                      2Fast4Me

                      #84474
                      nj-boatbuilder57
                      Participant

                        FWIW, moving from my harbor freight wheel puller to that OMC puller was such a huge step up it’s hard to completely articulate the improvement. You’re gonna love that OMC puller!

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