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Aidan Smith.
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March 15, 2026 at 9:53 am #309520
On a 1929 Evinrude folding N I own, the decals for the starting instructions are in really nice shape and actually legible, but given that I intend to run this motor, I know that without preservation of some kind, the starting instructions in particular will definitely flake off( I have chronically sweaty hands that tend to take off little chunks of decal whenever I touch them). Are there any recommendations as to what type of product I should use to preserve them? I was thinking either finding some sort of spray adhesive that ma leave a clear result and then spraying it just on the starting instructions with some sort of painters tape outside the instruction so that it does not get anywhere else, or I could get a piece of clear decal material that I could lay out on top of the decal so that it would all stay together.
"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."
March 15, 2026 at 11:13 am #309529here is one answer from an intelligent source…
what is a best method of preserving or protecting old decals on 1920 outboards ?On 1920s outboard motors, the original water-slide decals or early paint decals are very fragile. The goal is to stabilize them without dissolving or lifting the ink. Restorers usually follow these methods:
1. Clean Very Gently
- Use a barely damp soft cloth or cotton swab with distilled water only.
- Do not scrub and avoid detergents or solvents.
- Old decals were often shellac-based and can dissolve easily.
2. Seal the Decal
Once clean and dry, the safest preservation step is sealing.
Common approaches used by antique outboard collectors:
Microcrystalline wax (very popular)
- Products like Renaissance Wax
- Apply a very thin coat with a soft cloth.
- Buff lightly.
- Benefits:
- Protects from moisture and fingerprints
- Reversible and museum-grade
- Does not yellow
Clear acrylic conservation spray
- Light mist of an archival acrylic such as Krylon UV-resistant clear.
- Must be applied very lightly from distance.
- Used when decals are flaking and need to be locked down.
3. Avoid These (Common Mistakes)
Do not use:
- Automotive clear coat
- Polyurethane
- Lacquer thinner or cleaners
- Heavy polishing compounds
These can bleed the decal ink or cause it to wrinkle permanently.
4. Environmental Protection
Long-term survival also depends on storage:
- Avoid direct sunlight (UV fades decals fast)
- Keep in dry, stable temperature
- If displayed, avoid frequent touching.
5. If the Decal Is Lifting
A tiny amount of acid-free archival adhesive under the edge can reattach it, but this should be done carefully.
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March 15, 2026 at 2:11 pm #309564Years ago,one of the repro outboard paint venders used to sell an aerosol product just for that purpose,the company was Reprotint.I have also used clear acrylic sealer which seems to work as well.BUT do your own test before using it.
March 15, 2026 at 2:27 pm #309567ask chatgpt on care or protecting old decals on old outbaords using special restotation techniques, distilled water for clean up & special wax to protect them
no harsh automotive rubbing compounds !! no clear coats sprays
I tried posting all that and…poof !
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March 15, 2026 at 2:48 pm #309570Found my old can.I’ve used it many times with no problems.Can not use on vinyl decals.
March 15, 2026 at 7:06 pm #309626
To best preserve the decals, start looking for another tank to use when you want to run it.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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March 21, 2026 at 3:00 pm #311045Bingo. That’s exactly what I did on my ’29 Folding N.
Tubs,
I watched your N video as well. I had the exact same issues yours did after running for awhile. Fuel gets hot, doesn’t run good. I manufactured a small heat shield that goes between the tank and muffler. Runs much longer (1 hr trolling), without leaning out or dying.
Mine had the pistons installed upside down… that was a shock when I opened it up
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
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