Fuel shut off valve CC Commander 10hp

[opposedtwin]

The brass fuel shut off valve on the port side of this carb needs to be in a horizontal position so the needle can come out of the face plate. I have it in the correct position but it’s loose. It was very difficult to remove for cleaning (shoulda probably left it alone) because it did have something on the threads.

What can I put on the threads to make it stay in place? I’m assuming a loc-tite  type product might do the job. Anybody have a recommendation for what you have used that will work in this situation?

[JOSEPH BRINCAT]

So the fitting will not go around another full turn to tighten up, correct? If the thread is a tapered pipe thread (TPT) the best fix is to use the proper TPT pipe tap and gently enlarge the hole enough to allow the fitting to “come around to the proper position and be tight. Absent that fix, plan B would be to use some yellow teflon  pipe thread tape on the thread add enough wraps to tighten.

Joe B

[opposedtwin]

Thanks Joe! doesn’t look tapered to me. Or maybe?

I believe it will strip out if I force it the additional 250 (or so) degrees to get it tight and in the proper orientation.

I’ll give the yellow tape a try.

 

[JOSEPH BRINCAT]

It sure looks like a tapered pipe thread in the photo. Do you have any regular plumbing fittings to compare? I’m guessing it’s 1/4 “NPT.. can you measure the diameter accurately? The size will tell a lot.  In any case , give the teflon tape a try… may just solve the problem.

And, yes do NOT try and force it around , surly will break the carb body.

Joe B

[Tubs]

I have several aluminum tanks where the threads are so worn out that the fitting won’t tighten up. I use J B weld. I position the fitting where it needs to be and let it sit overnight. They can be and I have removed them. The J B Weld can be removed with a heat gun. Get it hot and it turns soft .

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

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opposedtwin

[opposedtwin]

Joe, i don’t know much about plumbing fittings, how to measure, etc.

I will plan to track down some of the yellow tape and give that a try.

Tubs,

good info! Thanks! I will try that stuff if the yellow tape fails to work.

[eltoquad]

Tubs, that is great news to me. I have a Caille twin that the valve screws all the way in to the end of thread and isnt tight enough. I’m going out in the garage and trying that right now.

[Tubs]

I also use it on carbs where “one more turn” broke the casting. I’ll patch them up best as I can with the aluminum brazing rod and use the J B Weld. Besides making the seal, it helps hold my “Boathouse Repair” together.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

1 user thanked author for this post.

opposedtwin

[ROBERT LAFAYETTE]

I also suggested the use of JB Weld on the FB group.

 

[opposedtwin]

Thanks for all the help guys !  Ok, got that fuel shutoff valve squared away (used the yellow gas type teflon tape) and now moving to the other end of the fuel line.

Swished around some clean gas in the tank, poured it out and there was quite a bit of gummy crud in the gas. The filter plug assembly was plugged so I removed and cleaned it. Looks like it’s just a small piece of fine brass screen soldered onto the neck. (See picture below) I was expecting a tall sintered style filter like the ones in the mercury super 10 green tanks with the large nut assembly.

Anybody know for sure what type of filter is correct for this motor ?

Also I thought I would buy a brass plug for the big nut assembly so I could seal and shake the tank to get it cleaner but can’t find a plug with the correct thread pitch. I’m not familiar with these gas fittings and how they’re sized. Any info you can provide would help.

Thanks in advance!

scott

[Author]

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