Home Forum Ask A Member Help troubleshoot my ’58 fisherman

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  • #10484
    mrhtx21
    Participant

      have a 1958 5.5 model 5516 motor was running decent but could be tempermental with starts esp cold start and lower unit was taking in a lot of water so had a lil down time and decided to address some of the issues
      took off prop nut pin shaft pin and prop and removed a bunch of fishing line and put back together
      then noticed behind plugs were very dirty so pulled crank case and cleaned water passagesand cleaned off a bunch of carbon off top of piston faces and cleaned cylinder walls (used wd 40 for most part ) ordered a new head gasket and put back together
      then removed exhaust cover same thing cleaned off a ton of caked up carbon and cleaned accesss passages ordered new gasket but hadnt arrived so cut one from gasket board put back together put shift thing back together correct way i believe (had no prior exp with that piece)
      and also went ahead and pulled carb and intake and did the fuel conversion (covered one of the holes and removed check valve installed mikuni pump) now everything back together when i start it it is running very rough and needle valaves adjust correctly but still doesnt take away the rough shake it has (wasbt there before) also noticed it doesnt seem to shift into gear now at least dont think it does not a 100% sure on that part just yet put any ideas wher this rough shake came from?

      #79135
      Mumbles
      Participant

        You said all that in one sentence? Since we are not texting here, could you please use some capital letters and periods where they belong to make it easier to read and understand?

        #79138
        fleetwin
        Participant

          US Member - 2 Years

          A little confused for sure…
          Was there water inside the gearcase? If so, for how long? There is a pesky "shock absorber" spring inside the driveshaft that sometimes breaks or expands, especially when exposed to water. This forces the driveshaft upward so it rubs on the upper bushing/seal housing which puts a lot of drag on the engine. Oftentimes this will cause the engine to slowly stall out at high speeds, or maybe tough to pull over. Please do not take your gearcase apart based on my advice, this is just something to think about if the engine is exhibiting symptoms like I have described.
          Sounds like you pulled the exhaust cover and cylinder head and found a lot of loose carbon. What kind of oil are you using, hopefully you are mixing at the prescribed ratio of 16:1. OK, you had a chance to peek at the cylinders and piston skirts, did everything look OK? No scored/scuffed pistons or cylinder walls? I think you said that you made your own exhaust cover gasket. If so, I hope everything is sealed properly so water is not being sprayed into the cylinders.
          It sounds like you converted to a single line tank with a fuel pump. You messed with the intake manifold also, I suspect the fuel pump might be leaking into one of the cylinders or you didn’t set up the intake manifold properly.
          Don’t know what to tell you about the engine not shifting properly. Did you have the powerhead/gearcase off? If not, you couldn’t have messed up the shift system much. Don’t continue to run the engine if it is not shifting properly, this will damage the clutch dog and forward gear lugs.
          One final thought……Did you remove that phillips screw down near the gear lube drain/fill screw? If you did, you messed up the shift linkage inside the gearcase which may require disassembly to get it back together properly again….

          #79139
          mrhtx21
          Participant
            quote fleetwin:

            A little confused for sure…
            Was there water inside the gearcase? If so, for how long? There is a pesky “shock absorber” spring inside the driveshaft that sometimes breaks or expands, especially when exposed to water. This forces the driveshaft upward so it rubs on the upper bushing/seal housing which puts a lot of drag on the engine. Oftentimes this will cause the engine to slowly stall out at high speeds, or maybe tough to pull over. Please do not take your gearcase apart based on my advice, this is just something to think about if the engine is exhibiting symptoms like I have described.
            Sounds like you pulled the exhaust cover and cylinder head and found a lot of loose carbon. What kind of oil are you using, hopefully you are mixing at the prescribed ratio of 16:1. OK, you had a chance to peek at the cylinders and piston skirts, did everything look OK? No scored/scuffed pistons or cylinder walls? I think you said that you made your own exhaust cover gasket. If so, I hope everything is sealed properly so water is not being sprayed into the cylinders.
            It sounds like you converted to a single line tank with a fuel pump. You messed with the intake manifold also, I suspect the fuel pump might be leaking into one of the cylinders or you didn’t set up the intake manifold properly.
            Don’t know what to tell you about the engine not shifting properly. Did you have the powerhead/gearcase off? If not, you couldn’t have messed up the shift system much. Don’t continue to run the engine if it is not shifting properly, this will damage the clutch dog and forward gear lugs.
            One final thought……Did you remove that phillips screw down near the gear lube drain/fill screw? If you did, you messed up the shift linkage inside the gearcase which may require disassembly to get it back together properly again….

            Had already replaced shosk absorber so im good there using tw3 but im running 24:1cylinders looked great other than the carbon on tops and didnt take off powerhead or mess with the phillips head screw of death lol

            #79151
            mrhtx21
            Participant

              So after evaluating the situation I am pretty certain that that shift lever on the outside of the exhaust cover was not put back on correctly and so I don’t have the full range of throttle that I did before cause any kind of run rough cuz it’s half throttle
              So can anyone tell me the correct procedure of putting that lever back on

              #79156
              billw
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years
                quote Mumbles:

                You said all that in one sentence? Since we are not texting here, could you please use some capital letters and periods where they belong to make it easier to read and understand?

                I gotta admit, I tried to read it and just couldn’t make it all the way through. It’s one of those cases where you’d like to help: but if the guy with the problem won’t make the effort, how are we supposed to help him?

                Long live American manufacturing!

                #79162
                fleetwin
                Participant

                  US Member - 2 Years
                  quote mrhtx21:

                  So after evaluating the situation I am pretty certain that that shift lever on the outside of the exhaust cover was not put back on correctly and so I don’t have the full range of throttle that I did before cause any kind of run rough cuz it’s half throttle
                  So can anyone tell me the correct procedure of putting that lever back on

                  OK, I am assuming you pulled out the vertical throttle rod/linkage, correct? Probably to access the exhaust cover. If so, I don’t know how that could have gotten messed up during reassembly, it only fits in one way. There is a plastic pin that fits into the gear on the bottom of the vertical throttle lever, did that get broken/snapped? The gears could not have gotten misaligned unless you pulled out the horizontal throttle rod, but you would have had to remove the set screw on the end of the gear to do that….
                  Maybe if you post some pictures we can see what is going on..
                  Finally, that engine absolutely requires a 16:1 fuel/oil mix, regardless of all the hype about today’s oils being superior to what was available back in the day. Continuing to run the engine at 24:1 will probably end up with a rod through the crankcase.

                  #79187
                  dougs-outboards
                  Participant
                    quote BillW:

                    quote Mumbles:

                    You said all that in one sentence? Since we are not texting here, could you please use some capital letters and periods where they belong to make it easier to read and understand?

                    I gotta admit, I tried to read it and just couldn’t make it all the way through. It’s one of those cases where you’d like to help: but if the guy with the problem won’t make the effort, how are we supposed to help him?

                    Oh, come on now… I was able to decipher it and understand it just fine- simply insert your own capitol letters and periods as you read it. Just takes a little comprehension on our end… 🙂 I mean what would you do if your life depended on understanding what he wrote? I bet you would understand it completely then, eh?
                    Maybe the guy is doing the best job he can with his english punctuation skills, and doesn’t have anyone around to proof read and correct his posts. I give the guy credit for posting, because some people are embarrased with their posting skills and decline to even post because of it.

                    No malice towards you intended… JMHO here…

                    #79194
                    mrhtx21
                    Participant
                      quote fleetwin:

                      quote mrhtx21:

                      So after evaluating the situation I am pretty certain that that shift lever on the outside of the exhaust cover was not put back on correctly and so I don’t have the full range of throttle that I did before cause any kind of run rough cuz it’s half throttle
                      So can anyone tell me the correct procedure of putting that lever back on

                      OK, I am assuming you pulled out the vertical throttle rod/linkage, correct? Probably to access the exhaust cover. If so, I don’t know how that could have gotten messed up during reassembly, it only fits in one way. There is a plastic pin that fits into the gear on the bottom of the vertical throttle lever, did that get broken/snapped? The gears could not have gotten misaligned unless you pulled out the horizontal throttle rod, but you would have had to remove the set screw on the end of the gear to do that….
                      Maybe if you post some pictures we can see what is going on..
                      Finally, that engine absolutely requires a 16:1 fuel/oil mix, regardless of all the hype about today’s oils being superior to what was available back in the day. Continuing to run the engine at 24:1 will probably end up with a rod through the crankcase.

                      So as you can see the gear on the tiller part only runs part of the way around it’s almost like the smooth part needs to face inside because as the teeth roll against each other it finally hits the smooth part which in turn won’t move the arm any further on the throttle and that small black rubber piece ends up quite shy of full throttle


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                      #79198
                      jpatti75
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        Oh yes, those gears are way out of alignment. The first tooth at one end of the pinion gear connected to the tiller should align with the first groove on the throttle gear. I’d butcher the explanation on how to adjust it, but you need to remove the throttle shaft/rod that connects to the magneto advance arm, and then you can remove both the tiller pinion gear and the throttle gear, and reinstall properly aligned.

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