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Waunnaboat.
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October 27, 2025 at 6:53 am #300975
For that, if one could buy the roller magnet from like Harbor Freight or similar…Roll it across the ground If it is steel you will surely find it quickly.
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
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October 27, 2025 at 8:37 am #300977Rope sheave screws aside, I have found a few other issues that I am not sure how to fix. In particular, the flywheel is kind of stuck. When having somebody else lift the flywheel up and pounding the crankshaft(with the flywheel nut on part of the way) with a few very healthy smacks from a mallet, the flywheel did not come loose. Is there some other tip/trick that could help with this? I’ve had good luck with this for getting flywheels off until now. Also, The water pump does not seem to be functioning(when the driveshaft is turned with an electric drill at at least idling speed. I think that this could be due to grease getting on the piston from gear case overfilling? The one-way valve above the piston is working fine but I am having difficulty accessing the one that I imagine would be on the intake.
"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."
October 27, 2025 at 10:16 am #300983Apply some heat to the hub of the flywheel, then attempt to whack a mole… and for the water pump, your check valves are stuck…Remove the caps and soak in a penetrant to free the check valves…
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
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October 27, 2025 at 5:04 pm #300987The check valve on the exhaust/water line side is good, but I will check the intake check valve sometime soon…and probably try heat around that time as well.
"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."
October 28, 2025 at 8:40 pm #301026I have unfortunately observed someone use heat and force at the same time on a flywheel to try to take it off and that warped it so much that it became unuseable because it rubbed on the coil heels afterwards. So if you end up using heat and force, alternate from one to the other – not both at the same time. Both at the same time didn’t get the flywheel off anyway. So opt for 1 at a time. Remember that the cooling off after the heating is when the metal contracts so the parts are theoretically easier to separate.
October 28, 2025 at 9:16 pm #301028I have unfortunately observed someone use heat and force at the same time on a flywheel to try to take it off and that warped it so much that it became unuseable because it rubbed on the coil heels afterwards. So if you end up using heat and force, alternate from one to the other – not both at the same time. Both at the same time didn’t get the flywheel off anyway. So opt for 1 at a time. Remember that the cooling off after the heating is when the metal contracts so the parts are theoretically easier to separate.
I was under a very similar thought process, but I greatly appreciate the reminder. It may be a while before I end up having the time to get around for it, but I will surely report back if heat was successful or not.
"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."
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October 29, 2025 at 6:14 am #301033As has been pointed out previously, the rope sheave screws are a 10-30 thread. Whoever “figured out” that they were a 10-28 has created problems for whoever owns the motor next. That’s a polite way to say that they f***ed it up. Sorry, but that’s accurate.
You cannot buy 10-30 screws from any supplier in this hemisphere. Most North American built lathes do not have a 30 TPI gearbox setting, so that compounds the problem by not allowing a person with a lathe to single-point cut the thread. You CAN buy a die that allows you to make them yourself. You will either have to own or borrow and know how to use a lathe. A milling machine and slitting saw also come in handle for the screwdriver slot. If you’re gathering from this post that these screws are something someone with basic machinist skills will have to make, you’re right. If you don’t happen to have those skills or access to the equipment, you need to hire it done. That is the only way you’re going to able to “buy new” parts. The tap and die are readily available in the USA, I bought mine in Michigan. Buy them and you’re all set for tooling at least. The bonus is that whoever makes a set of rope plate screws now can also make flywheel puller screws to safely remove that part without damaging the motor or yourself. Keep hammering on the flywheel nut, and this will happen. Not “if”, but “when”.
You may find some screws on a motor but then you’re rendering that motor unusable to anyone else, and they’re likely to be bunged up anyway because people notoriously used the wrong sized screwdriver to take them out, which is what f***s them up in the first place.
Hope this helps, but I don’t pay any attention to complaints if it doesn’t.
Best,
PM T2He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
October 29, 2025 at 7:54 am #301038Those new magnets sold on Amazon are so strong you can pull worms out of the ground 🙂
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
October 29, 2025 at 9:32 pm #301061

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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October 30, 2025 at 12:11 am #301070The subject of obsolete screw sizes comes up often. Attached is a chart of the old ASME screw sizes. Note that many of the screws were available in several, now unavailable thread pitches. Also note several sizes (12, 14, 16) are deceiving close to our common 1/4 ” screws.
Joe
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