Johnson a

[PM T2]

Regarding your assessment of my response;

1. The Johnson flywheel in question uses a steel hub, not aluminum. I was addressing a question about the screw sizes used on the Johnsons, not what to do about taking flywheels off Evinrude rowboat motors or Elto’s.
2. I didn’t tell anybody they had to make puller bolts, I said it gives them the capability. Is a harmonic puller the best way to address every motor that shows up in the shop? Of course not, because as shown, not all manufacturers put threaded holes in the flywheel hub. By all means construct your knockometer tools for cases where the puller can’t help, but when it can be used, I’ll use a puller where I believe its necessary, or prudent. FWIW all the great flywheel removal tools a person can conjure up won’t help generate a 10-30 countersunk & domed slotted-head screw, no matter what type of hammer you hit it with.
3. My point in general was that its not always a walk in the park to work on these motors, sometimes it takes more than ordinary means to get certain things accomplished. One doesn’t always get to push the ‘EASY” button. Guy “A”  asked about buying new ones. If nobody makes them except  Guy “B” who apparently is enough of a fool to have bought the correct threading tools to do it, then Guy “A” either going to go without or he’s going to figure out how to get it done. Or continue to do whatever it is he’s currently doing, and truthfully I don’t really know exactly what that is, so maybe I shouldn’t worry too much about it.
4. Making simple slotted screws involves about four different operations, regardless of length, diameter, or choice of material. I don’t find any of the operations particularly onerous myself, but thats just me. Most people wouldn’t do it because for various reasons they just may not be able to, and there’s nothing wrong with that. I happen to like to do stuff a lot of people can’t or won’t. Thats my way of enjoying the hobby. Everybody has their preferences. Caveat mechanicus.

Best,
PM T2

He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

[Tubs]

The flywheel in question is in fact aluminum, no steel hub. You implied that if he continued, catastrophic damage was imminent –  “Keep hammering on the flywheel nut, and this will happen”. I believe that is an exaggeration of the risk. As a puller is not an option, I felt the need to respond. As you do appear to pay attention to complaints, I apologize if I have offended you. 

 

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Waunnaboat]

I found somebody with a puller that grabs the outside of the flywheel and puts the down force on the top of the crankshaft.  I’ll see if that works sometime soon because it does not need the flywheel screws at all.

"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."

[PM T2]

No worries, Tubs. No offence taken. And I wouldn’t classify anything you said as a complaint.  FWIW I didn’t verify how early or late his motor was and never saw a serial number referenced or photo of the flywheel. My bad. I’m used to working on Johnsons with flywheels like this one.

I would not recommend the used of any puller that grabs the outer rim. If you’ve got the all-aluminum flywheel like in Tubs photo, there’s more bad than good that will happen if you exert pulling force on the circumference of that wheel. The home-made knocker tool would be a better choice than going that route.

Best,
PM T2

 

He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

1 user thanked author for this post.

Waunnaboat

[Bob Wight]

I’ll second the motion for not using a puller that pulls on the rim of the flywheel.   That is usually a recipe for very bad (and often expensive) things to happen, which is even more likely with an aluminum flywheel.   You should go with the knocker tool instead.

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1957 Evinrude 3022
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

1 user thanked author for this post.

Tubs

[Waunnaboat]

The puller in question does not pull on the rim, but rather grabs the side so that is not as much as a concern(but still valid).  I will give it a careful try but will not try too hard with said tool.

"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."

[Tubs]

 

If good judgment isn’t used you could in fact distort the flywheel. But if you tighten the puller, so there is a fair amount of tension pulling on the flywheel, then lift the flywheel, and strike the center bolt of the puller several times, as you would a knocker, the combined force’s may release it. If that doesn’t get it free, using a piece of wood to protect it, give the flywheel a good smack on the side, and repeat the above. If that doesn’t get it off, try a side smack in a different location.  

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Waunnaboat]

That was about my thought process.  I know that it may be an area of concern, but I am not going to try to rush into this and damage anything.  I won’t really get around to figuring out the ignition system for a while anyway because I have been busy lately, so I will take my time.

"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."

[Waunnaboat]

I ended up getting the flywheel off with a lot of penetrating oil, heat, and a ton of light and carefully smacks to the crankshaft and flywheel.  The flywheel key came out in two equal pieces.  Was this original, or did it just shear off?  Am I good to replace the condenser with a standard .22 condenser, or is there something else I need to use?  if the coil has a decent multimeter readout(have not yet checked), should I bother to clean/inspect/replace anything inside of it?

"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."

[stanley]

(1) The two piece key is correct for your A model.(2) your best off the shelf choice for condenser is an Echlin RR 174.(3) The coil is either good enough or not there is no reason to try and dismantle it.To test coil using multi meter, put one meter lead on each spark plug wire tab on coil or if plug wires are good you can check by attaching lead to each plug wire end,and read resistance on 1K ohm scale.You should have reading around 8.

2 users thanked author for this post.

Sam M., Waunnaboat

[Author]

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