Johnson Electramatic Project

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  • wescustogo

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 6
    Topics: 3
    #282594

    Hello,

    Just picked up a Starcraft Arrow with a matching Johnson 40hp 1962 Electramatic. Previous owner never got it running, but said it ran when she bought it. The shifting seems to work as when it’s hooked up to a battery I can feel forward, reverse, and neutral rotating the prop. Electric start works great and compression was 90/90. I haven’t determined whether it has spark yet. There is a grounding wire on the front of the motor connecting the powerhead to the leg and it’s chewed thru. Not sure what it would affect.

     

    Any recommendations on what to do next? I have previously worked on smaller motors up to 10hp and nothing with this much wiring. I’ll be checking and changing the lower unit oil soon.

     

     


    crosbyman

    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 3430
    Topics: 317
    #282598

    61_66_40HP.jpg (1000√ó1210) (maxrules.com)

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    george-emmanuel

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 486
    Topics: 36
    #282599

    The oil in the gearfoot is different for the electric shift engines. Check the specs and use the correct lubricant. Until you know you have spark, or do the necessary work to get good spark, there’s not much you can do to move forward on the project. My rule is always do all the basics,—clean carb, clean fuel, clean ignition, good wiring, and waterpump once it’s up and running. Elsewise you’ll get it running, test it on the water and something will fail. Do it all before the water test!

    George


    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 4698
    Topics: 45
    #282600

    Well that is a beautiful engine indeed.¬† You will want to repair that grounding bond strap for sure…¬† The electric shift feature on these engines is nice but requires frequent and important maintenance.¬† Have you drained/inspected/refilled the gearcase yet?¬† The electric shift gearcases require a very special gear lube called “OMC/BRP premium blend”.¬† Using substitutes could result in slippage/damage.¬† It is so important that the gear lube is fresh and clean.¬† “Milky” lube, or raw water in the gearcase can spell big trouble, all leaks need to be repaired quickly.¬† ¬†You will probably want to do a water pump job on the engine as well.¬† Pulling this gearcase down can be a little tricky, because you don’t want to damage the electric cable that comes down and out with the gearcase.

    The other important system that must be maintained is the electrical system/generator.¬† The gearcase requires a strong 12 volt input to keep the unit “in gear”.¬† A marginal battery or weak charging system could cause slippage at high speed that will result in gearcase damage.¬† Understanding, and maintaining that generator/charging system is a must.¬† There is no voltage needed to keep the gearcase in neutral though, so running it without a battery in a test tank/barrel isn’t going to hurt the gearcase.

    There is an external “junction box” on these engines that is where many electrical connections are made between the engine and boat wiring harness, the voltage regulator is housed inside the junction box as well.¬† The dash has a key switch, probably a “hot light”, and an ammeter.¬† The ammeter is extremely important and must be wired/working properly.¬† The control box has the electric shift switch inside.¬† You must make sure that switch is in good shape, they can be hard to find these days.¬† A marginal switch could cause the engine to jump in and out of gear at high speeds, which could result in injury or gearcase damage.

    The powerhead is very rugged on these engines, hoping this one was only used in fresh water.¬† You will probably want to service the ignition system and the carb/fuel system as well, in order for this engine to be a reliable daily runner…


    crosbyman

    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 3430
    Topics: 317
    #282601

    if you have a copy of the Johnson¬† red book bible there is quite¬† a bit of info on the 40’s¬† (RK)¬† ¬† which may be of use to you¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† see ex:

    covers carbs, choke. starter, junction box¬† ¬† ¬†… pretty much¬† everything really…

     

     

    https://watercraftmanuals.com/outboard/johnson/manuals/johnson-302231.htm

    you can download it and¬† have it printed localy…. double sided and spring bound at a local print shop.

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    wescustogo

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 6
    Topics: 3
    #282614

    Thanks! This is a really great help, I think I see where my issue lies in the grounding wire.


    wescustogo

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 6
    Topics: 3
    #282615

    The oil in the gearfoot is different for the electric shift engines. Check the specs and use the correct lubricant. Until you know you have spark, or do the necessary work to get good spark, there’s not much you can do to move forward on the project. My rule is always do all the basics,—clean carb, clean fuel, clean ignition, good wiring, and waterpump once it’s up and running. Elsewise you’ll get it running, test it on the water and something will fail. Do it all before the water test!

    George

    I noticed, Type C oil from what I’ve read online? I have lots of ignition parts from my earlier work on 50s omc’s and ordered a water pump and carb kit for this motor. Draining the lower unit is my next step.


    wescustogo

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 6
    Topics: 3
    #282617

    Well that is a beautiful engine indeed.¬† You will want to repair that grounding bond strap for sure…¬† The electric shift feature on these engines is nice but requires frequent and important maintenance.¬† Have you drained/inspected/refilled the gearcase yet?¬† The electric shift gearcases require a very special gear lube called “OMC/BRP premium blend”.¬† Using substitutes could result in slippage/damage.¬† It is so important that the gear lube is fresh and clean.¬† “Milky” lube, or raw water in the gearcase can spell big trouble, all leaks need to be repaired quickly.¬† ¬†You will probably want to do a water pump job on the engine as well.¬† Pulling this gearcase down can be a little tricky, because you don’t want to damage the electric cable that comes down and out with the gearcase.

    The other important system that must be maintained is the electrical system/generator.¬† The gearcase requires a strong 12 volt input to keep the unit “in gear”.¬† A marginal battery or weak charging system could cause slippage at high speed that will result in gearcase damage.¬† Understanding, and maintaining that generator/charging system is a must.¬† There is no voltage needed to keep the gearcase in neutral though, so running it without a battery in a test tank/barrel isn’t going to hurt the gearcase.

    There is an external “junction box” on these engines that is where many electrical connections are made between the engine and boat wiring harness, the voltage regulator is housed inside the junction box as well.¬† The dash has a key switch, probably a “hot light”, and an ammeter.¬† The ammeter is extremely important and must be wired/working properly.¬† The control box has the electric shift switch inside.¬† You must make sure that switch is in good shape, they can be hard to find these days.¬† A marginal switch could cause the engine to jump in and out of gear at high speeds, which could result in injury or gearcase damage.

    The powerhead is very rugged on these engines, hoping this one was only used in fresh water.¬† You will probably want to service the ignition system and the carb/fuel system as well, in order for this engine to be a reliable daily runner…

    The grounding wire is next on my list, any idea what it being broken would affect?

    I haven’t drained it yet as I need to go get the right gearcase oil for it. Would any Type C oil work? I see it works for electric shift motors.

    Ordered a waterpump and carb kit first thing. Previous owner knowledge leads me to believe it’s only been freshwater lake use. The belt on the generator looks like a replacement, I haven’t gotten it running but can see the ammeter moves when I turn it over. The external junction box looks to be in good shape, haven’t gone over anything with a meter yet though. Has an overheat light as well.

     

     


    wescustogo

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 6
    Topics: 3
    #282618

    if you have a copy of the Johnson¬† red book bible there is quite¬† a bit of info on the 40’s¬† (RK)¬† ¬† which may be of use to you¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† see ex:

    covers carbs, choke. starter, junction box¬† ¬† ¬†… pretty much¬† everything really…

     

     

    https://watercraftmanuals.com/outboard/johnson/manuals/johnson-302231.htm

    you can download it and¬† have it printed localy…. double sided and spring bound at a local print shop.

    Thanks for the attachment and link! I’ll see if a member near me has a copy. Would love a tachometer on it.


    wescustogo

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 6
    Topics: 3
    #282619

    Here’s two photos of the junction box. How would I test the switch to make sure it’s good?

     

     

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