Johnson S45 – Stuck – Which Piston to tap?

[hidditt]

Good call on the lower unit. It cam off really easy and the prop won’t turn. There is absolutely no grease, oil or any petroleum based residue inside the gear housing. I’ve sprayed some Deep Creep in there and wonder if filling it with brake fluid or ATF would help. Nice deep reservoir to work with there. Should I be tapping on the prop with a rubber mallet? Too cold up here in Ontario for 50:1. See Photo 8433.

Harmonic Balancer Idea for Unseizing a piston – got a harmonic balancer to fit on two of the S45 head bolts – wonder what you think about that as an alternative to tapping the cylinder head. See photo 8431

Drive shaft looks seized to the midsection. Sprayed it with penetrating oil too. Just let it sit for a while or immerse in a bath of ….?

Thanks for all the comments and assistance. I have no experience with this type of motor. Learning lots and enjoying every moment. (I’m a 50’s – 80’s Johnson/Evinrude guy mostly.)

• This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by Mumbles.

[hidditt]

FYI, the penetrating oil I put in the cylinder with the motor resting on its side did not get absorbed. It remained on top of the engine in the bore. It’s been sitting for about a week now.

[crosbyman]

tried a wood peg and hammer method yet ??

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[hidditt]

Yes, I have been tapping away. Now on both pistons. To no avail. I did get the carb/rotary valve and found the entire crank/piston rod/bushings to be completely rusted. Now have pentrating oil sprayed all over. I guess that is progress.

The lower unit is really seized. I’ve sprayed it with pentrating oil, and am now trying to get it moving using a johnson bar and the prop nut (bottomed out on the shaft). Nothing doing so far.

[hidditt]

After a couple of months…

The lower unit and rotary valve are now unstuck. The ball bearings in the rotary valve assembly have seen better days. One bearing is (sort of) working as it should, the other is still frozen.

I’m trying to get the drive shaft off with the leg. I have loosened off the nuts that secure the leg to the lower power head crank case, but that leg is not going to come off easily. I am not sure how to get leverage on it to pull it off. Suggestions?

The muffler has been removed and the exhaust ports are covered by the piston. I have been soaking the piston by filling the exhaust ports with ATF. I don’t want to use gas or diesel indoors. I will fill up the crank case with penetrating oil and ATF as suggested. No amount of tapping on the pistons has resulted in any movement so far.

I thought about removing the flywheel and mag plate but can’t find a match for the flywheel puller bolts. Maybe 5/16 – 24 UNF threads? The 5/15-18 UNC threads almost work. Getting some penetrating oil onto the top of the upper crank bearing might help.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

[stanley]

If you have the original flywheel nut and domed ID plate held on by three large screws,you have the flywheel puller.Make sure the screws are tightened and loosen the nut until flywheel pops off.Just use strap wrench and box end wrench to avoid damage.How far down in the cylinder are the pistons?

• This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by stanley.

[mas]

No further advice, but I can feel your joy already when it pops just a micrometer…very satisfying!

You’ll get there!

Mas

[The Boat House]

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• This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by The Boat House.
• This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by The Boat House.

[jmylaw]

Did you eventually get your S45 unstuck?

[lloyd]

Heat is your friend also. If you can find an old Crock Pot and fill it with antifreeze, you can soak the cylinders to expand them before tapping on the pistons. Or just use boiling hot water in a plastic bucket. I have freed up numerous motors that way.

[Author]

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