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Usually all the water will drain out if the engine is left in the down/run position. You can also crank it a few revolutions to ensure nothing is trapped in the water pump as well
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millions of outbards get frozen up 4 -5 months and if stored vertically no much happens…. but do change the GC oil in case water made its way in !!! othersie the GC will crack $$$$$$$$
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That’s one of the reasons people like outboards so much; no draining to do like you have with IO’s and inboards. In the vertical position they are designed to drain all by themselves.
The gearcase however like Crosbyman says can be an issue if the seals are bad and water has gotten in there. Drain and refill that and you should be good to go.
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When I ran it back in September I did not see water coming out of the pee-hole. So I don’t know if the the water pump was working or not. When you say ‘crank it’, does that mean turning the engine over when it is not in water by turning the start key?
Your 40 HP has no telltale “pee hole”. You should get a small amount of spray out the hole that is approx 3/4 inch diameter a few inches below the powerhead, along with a small amount of exhaust. A bit more water will come out there when running fast and the thermostat stays open, but most of the cooling water goes out underwater with the main exhaust. To see if it’s overheating, flick some water on the engine block and/or cyl heads with your fingers. If it boils and spits, shut the motor off because it’s not cooling. Don’t flick on the side with the exhaust port cover.
Dave
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I find that sometimes not all the water comes out of outboards when in the vertical position. I.e. I have tried to drain outboards that way but have then had water spill out upon carring them. I would reccomend tilting the engine into every possible position you can, up, down, halfway (if possible), and steer straight, left, and right at each position, to maximizewater drainage. Also, lift your trailer hitch way up (but don’t smack the motor into the ground while doing that) and lower it way down. Following all that, if you have access to compressed air, I would suggest blasting out the hole where cooling water should exit, as well as all the open holes you can find in the gearcase. I think there should be a teeny tiny hole (or two?) in the gearcase (maybe front left?) for water to drain out, alongside the obvious bigger holes. It would be a good idea to make sure the little hole is not plugged with debris as it lets water drain out.
As other members have said, a gear oil change is a great idea. Basically, you put a wide pan under the motor to catch the old oil. Then undo the 2 slotted screws on the gearcase. Let it drain for awhile. Don’t let insects investigate where those screws were. Then, pump your new gear oil (go for one that specifically says it’s for outboards, unless you have an electric shift motor then you need a more specific oil that still is for outboards) from the bottom up. Go slow so you don’t make tons of air bubbles. Then once oil comes out the top, put the top screw in. Then quickly replace your gear oil pump or tube with the screw. Youtube might make this easier to understand.
Also, some people like adding a little two-stroke oil or fogging oil into the spark plug holes to prevent moisture damage to the cylinders. Then maybe spin the engine over 1 rotation so the oil covers more surface area.
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When I ran it back in September I did not see water coming out of the pee-hole. So I don’t know if the the water pump was working or not. When you say ‘crank it’, does that mean turning the engine over when it is not in water by turning the start key?
Don’t start it, just crank it over a few revolutions by hand or with the electric starter.
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Just to add a couple of thoughts to this thread… Generally there are pockets and cavities within the leg of most outboards that can trap water. The manufacturers provide drain holes for these pockets. The problem is that after time these drain holes, often pretty small can get plugged up with carbon, mud and sand. Look over the lower part of your motor leg, look for small holes, these likely lead to cavities within the leg… be sure that they are obstruction free. When dropping a leg to service the water pump, that is a good time to check from the inside for plugged drain passages .
Joe B
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